Gay Westerners visiting India for the first time are often surprised by the contradictions they encounter, especially the sexual ones.
On one hand, same-gender sexual relations were against the law until 2018, when the country’s Surpreme Court struck down Section 377 of the Indian Penal Code. Yet in many parts of the country, you’ll see men holding hands in the streets and even cuddling in public places—they’re usually straight, but then, maybe not? While overtly LGBTQ+ spaces are rare in modern India, over the last couple of decades, regular club nights have sprung up in the larger cities, promoted through email lists, social media pages and word of mouth. Profiles on hookup apps often don’t have face photos, but that doesn’t mean the apps aren’t busy. On the other side of things, Indian culture recognizes a third gender, known as Hijra, which sounds cool, but Hirjas are typically not well-treated by society.
Sanjay Malhotra first jumped into these contradictions about 18 years ago with the launch of Indjapink, a bespoke tour company aimed at gay men, typically from other countries. Because of the crowding and logistical complications that can make getting around in India a little frustrating, having dedicated transportation and gay or gay-friendly drivers and guides can turn a frazzled tour into something splendid. With so much of LGBTQ+ culture happening underground, Indjapink can also help international visitors meet local gay people and find some of the cooler LGBTQ+-friendly spots.
Eight years after the launch of Indjapink, Malhotra opened Mister & Art House (D3, Greater Kailash Enclave II, Greater Kailash, New Delhi) in a relaxed southern neighbourhood of his hometown of New Delhi. The guesthouse has five well-appointed rooms, a rooftop terrace, shared spaces for meeting other guests and a huge art collection, including lots of homoerotic art.
“I’m basically a fashion designer—I was at Fashion Institute of Technology New York. And I’ve been a passionate traveller for 35 years now, quite a bit in Europe, the U.S., Canada, South America and of course South Asia and Southeast Asia,” says Malhotra. “I knew there was this niche market in India. I mean, we have everything in our country—geographical wonders from deserts to the mountains of the Himalayas to the shorelines, the culture and architectural heritage, the colours, the food. But I felt that gay male travellers needed a refuge when visiting, something that would make them feel safe and secure, so they wouldn’t have to pretend that they are straight or try to hide their personality or who they really are under a shadow.”
New Delhi is a first stop for many visitors to India because of its airline connections; its proximity to Agra, the home of the country’s most iconic attraction, the Taj Mahal; the maze-like streets of Old Delhi and its many historic monuments including Red Fort, Humayun’s Tomb, India Gate and Lodhi Garden, just to name a few. Though the city of almost 34 million is less walkable than its rivals, Mumbai and Kolkata, it makes up for its sprawl with its exuberance. It’s hipper than all that history would have you believe. It’s just a matter of finding it.
“The people who live here have this motto, to live life to its fullest,” says Malhotra. “They must eat well, they must party well. They must dress well. And even if it goes way beyond their pockets, they must still do it. People in other parts of India are much more humble, but people in Delhi are probably the flashiest. You can’t take that title away from us.”
His queer travel empire will get bigger in fall 2024 when Malhotra opens another five-room guest house in Jaipur, the capital of the desert-y state of Rhajasthan and one of the key stops for foreign visitors looking to take in its opulent architecture, soak up the desert culture and shop for vibrant Rajasthani textiles. Located in an historic mansion, the Jaipur space will be significantly bigger than the New Delhi property, and will have a plunge pool. “I’m thinking if we can have a swimming pool, that would be icing on the cake.”
What’s gay in New Delhi these days
Finding the hottest spots in India’s capital usually means belonging to the right social media community to get all the updates on what’s happening where. But there are a few venues that wear their rainbow colours on their sleeves.
Kitty Su (The Lalit Hotel, Barakhamba Rd., opp. Modern School, Connaught Place, New Delhi). Though it doesn’t call itself a gay bar, patrons can be forgiven for thinking it is. This progressive hotel nightclub regularly hosts drag and other queer performances. Glam fun.
Depot48 (M9, Level 1 & 2, M Block, Market, Block M, Part 2, Greater Kailash, New Delhi). With its weekly Pink Thursdays, which usually feature drag performances, this live-music venue has been a safe space since it opened in 2020.
Flips with Mykonos Men Spa Delhi (Ground floor, khasra, No. 619/7, Building, Street No. 2, opposite Tivoli Garden, Block A1, Chhatarpur, New Delhi). As well as offering massage services for men, this spa also hosts underwear, towel-only and dark-room parties. Jacuzzi, steamroom, the works.
The Hammam (A-35 third floor, opposite metro pillar 162, Rajouri Garden, New Delhi). This gay-owned spa is the largest of three sister spas, and the largest in India. As well as massage services and treatments, they host male-to-male club nights for gay and bi men.
