Before there was a circuit of cities for queers to hit, there was one key destination for gay folks: San Francisco. The city’s status as a queer mecca is undisputed; LGBTQ2S+ people started flocking to San Francisco from all over the United States at least a century ago and remade much of the city in their image. Sitting on the tip of a peninsula in Northern California, San Francisco is a port city surrounded by wine country, rolling hills and dozens of rental car-worthy day trips. The city itself is smaller than its reputation, with a population of under a million, but spills out into the densely populated greater Bay Area, in which cities like Oakland have their own burgeoning queer scenes.
In recent years, San Francisco has been swallowed up by Silicon Valley, about an hour’s drive south of the city proper, with hordes of monied tech workers having made it their home. The city has shifted to their tastes, just like it absorbed the 1960s and ’70s hippie counterculture and the queer folks who define it as one of the world’s premiere gay hubs. But even amidst its ever-changing culture, San Francisco remains queer. The city is home to countless queer-owned and operated businesses, incredible LGBTQ2S+ art and intoxicating gay nightlife. For history buffs, it’s also a unique hub given its outsized role as a leading locale in the fight for gay liberation.
There’s the GLBT Historical Society Museum, of course, where you can listen to tapes of local politician turned history-maker Harvey Milk speaking (I cried on my first visit). But queer histories hover over many corners of the city well beyond the Castro. Every trip to San Francisco weaves together gay history with the city’s queer present. Keenly aware of the lore surrounding San Francisco’s anything-goes drag scene in the ’90s, for example, I discovered Oasis, a LGBTQ2S+ superclub founded in part by Heklina, who was famously at the forefront of alternative drag in that era. The Björk tribute show I caught at Oasis was eclectic, strange and ethereal. Björk would have loved it. Lured in by Sister Roma, an activist, performer and famed member of the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence, a charity and advocacy group founded in San Francisco, I paid a visit to a video bar called Midnight Sun, itself a 50-plus year gay institution, where I caught a Drag Race screening and made friends with locals who took me on a dance floor crawl of the Castro. Following the breadcrumbs left by these San Francisco queer legends led me to haunts inhabited by a new generation of LGBTQ2S+ folks, pulled in by its mythic, historic gay status.
On my very first trip there, I excavated the queer San Francisco of yore that preoccupied my imagination of the city from Armistead Maupin’s classic Tales of the City series of novels. Originally a serialized roman à clef newspaper column by Maupin that queers in the know would read to identify local gossip happening in the moment, the books were adapted into a TV show that ran on PBS in the ’90s and were then re-imagined once again in contemporary San Francisco for a Netflix series in 2019. Now one of the most iconic addresses in queer pop culture, 28 Barbary Lane, where the characters live, is fictional, but based on a real back lane in Russian Hill.
I meandered up and down the city’s hills on my quest to find the real-life Macondray Lane, peeking into the windows of residential homes as I got lost along the way. Finally stepping onto the wooden laneway felt like discovering a secret garden. Starting on the western tip, I disappeared under a canopy of trees for a stroll along the pocket-sized backyards of a strip of historic district homes that lead out towards the lane. On the east end of the trail I found the visual I was after: winding wooden steps built into a vine-covered hill. It’s not quite the visual from either TV series, but it’s magical all the same: a verdant landscape upon which a queer utopia was built, just like San Francisco.
What to see and do
GLBT Historical Society Museum (4127 18th St., San Francisco). San Francisco is teeming with queer history and this modestly-sized museum takes visitors on a journey from the city’s LGBTQ2S+ activist roots to its status today as a world-class queer hub. It houses the personal belongings of Harvey Milk, the first openly gay man to be elected to public office in California (he was assassinated in 1978), alongside queer ephemera like journal entries about what it was like to transition in the ’70s and matchbooks from long-shuttered gay bars.
Juanita MORE! Murals (Folsom Street at Dore Alley, 18th & Sanchez Street, 14th Street at Guerrero, Steiner and Grove Street, San Francisco). Snap a selfie with local royalty! Drag legend Juanita MORE!’s face is artfully plastered all over town thanks to a project that saw artists paint murals of the drag queen, who has been a nightlife staple for nearly three decades.
Castro Theatre (429 Castro St., San Francisco). Built in 1922, the Castro Theatre is a grand, ornately outfitted theatre with a storied history. The longtime home of drag icon Peaches Christ, the theatre was known for hosting sing-alongs and campy drag interpretations of cult classics, but was acquired and renovated in 2022 and now hosts everything from comedy to live music alongside repertory cinema.
Mission Dolores Park (Dolores & 19th Street, San Francisco). Bridging together the Castro and the Mission, a historically Latine neighbourhood with great bars and even better burritos, this beloved park has some of the most picturesque views in the city. The nearly 16-acre park is split up like a high-school cafeteria: there’s “Gay Beach,” where queers congregate on the southwest corner; “Straight Beach” to the east; and “Hipster Hill” up north, where the cool kids hang out at the top of the hill. In a city where a dollar doesn’t go far, it’s hard to find a better cheap date than a picnic at Dolores.
Baker Beach (1770 Gibson Rd., San Francisco). Tucked into the Presidio of San Francisco, Baker Beach has postcard views of the Golden State Bridge. The water’s typically frigid, but the beach gets cooking—especially the north end, where local gays gather and occasionally lose their swimsuits.
Castro Tattoo (3991 17th St., San Francisco). Bro-coded tattoo shops can be intimidating spaces for queer folks looking to get new ink. This queer-owned studio, with candy-coloured walls and a resident cardboard cut-out of Dolly Parton, was specifically designed to be a safe space by tattoo artist Haley Adams.
San Francisco Pride. During Pride, held each year on the last full weekend of June, San Francisco’s population literally doubles. The city typically welcomes more than one million guests, making it one of the world’s largest LGBTQ2S+ events. Like so many of San Francisco’s queer institutions, SF Pride holds an outsized influence on global queer culture: the rainbow flag itself was originally designed for San Francisco Gay Freedom Day 1978. And the political urgency of early Prides in San Francisco is still ever present. In 2023, SF Pride added to its weekend of parades and sweaty dance parties with a Human Rights Summit designed to combat the political persecution of queer folks.
Folsom Street Fair. On the final Sunday of each September, BDSM enthusiasts descend on this stretch of pavement in the SoMa district for an outdoor spectacular that celebrates kink, leather and alternative sexualities. Yes, there’s public sex and all sorts of kink demonstrations— many of which are not for the squeamish—but it’s got all the typical hallmarks of any street fair, too. You’ll find vendors selling jewellery (Babygirl Inc. was a 2023 Folsom discovery) and food trucks alongside NSFW activities. Clear your mind of expectations and preconceived notions before attending Folsom because the on-the-ground experience is more inclusive and community-oriented than representations of the event in pop culture and mainstream media suggest.
Where to stay
Proper Hotel (100 Market St., San Francisco) Taking a stroll through the Proper is like stepping into the latest copy of Architectural Digest. Design superstar Kelly Wearstler, who has counted both Gwen Stefani and Cameron Diaz as clients, was at the helm of creating this eclectic, incredibly chic boutique hotel. Housed in a flatiron-style building, guests can get lost in the gallery walls of art that dot the Proper or toast the town on the hotel’s rooftop bar. Whatever they do, it’ll be in style—even the gym is wrapped in an enchanting wallpaper.
Hotel Kabuki (1625 Post St., San Francisco) A gem of Japantown, Hotel Kabuki blends Asian and Western influences to offer an ultra-relaxing stay. It even has a zen garden and encourages guests to feed the fish! Also on site: A Michelin-starred restaurant, Nari, that offers a California take on Thai cuisine.
Beck’s Motor Lodge (2222 Market St., San Francisco) This motel has been around since before the Castro got its name, when the working-class Irish neighbourhood was known as Eureka Valley and rooms went for five bucks a pop. Today they’re (quite) a bit more expensive, but still on the economical end of San Francisco accommodations. The motel itself is cheerful, with charming, retro-minded renovations that nod to roadside motels of yore.
Phoenix Hotel (601 Eddy St., San Francisco). With motel-style rooms circling a pool and palm trees aplenty, the Phoenix feels like a little slice of Palm Springs slipped into the Tenderloin. The hotel has been transformed aesthetically from its past life as the go-to spot for rockers to stay in SF (both Kurt Cobain and Debbie Harry were guests, and legend claims Neil Young used to live in one of the rooms), but it still retains its rock ‘n’ roll spirit—especially during poolside ragers.
The Metro Hotel (319 Divisadero St., San Francisco). Steps away from some of the best shopping in the city’s Haight-Ashbury neighbourhood, at one time the epicentre of counterculture, the Metro is a compact boutique hotel with the warmth of a stay at your coolest aunt’s place. There’s a shared garden draped in ferns and a cozy, art-filled entrance that feels more like a living room than a lobby. Housed in a strip of walk-ups, staying here will make you feel like a local.
The Hotel Castro (4230 18th St., San Francisco). The star of this 12-room hotel is the artwork; the rooms are decked out in floor-to-ceiling collages that create full-room murals so you can snag Insta-worthy photos without leaving bed. With balconies directly over the gaybourhood, this place is perfect for the queer art of people-watching.
Green Tortoise Hostel (494 Broadway, San Francisco). San Francisco is, by any measure, one of the world’s most expensive cities to stay in. There are, however, more cost-effective lodging options, like the Green Tortoise. Grown out of a “hippie bus” company that first criss-crossed America in the ’70s, the hostel retains the communal spirit of the no-frills travel company it started as. It’s still a no-frills experience, but ranks very well in terms of hostel accommodations.
Where to eat
Hot Cookie (407 Castro St., San Francisco). Something sweet in the shape of something spicy! This pint-sized gay-owned bakery is locally infamous for its chewy cookies in the shape of penises and vaginas. The counter-service shop in the Castro will guarantee you with a hot treat even if your vacation doesn’t deliver a hot hookup.
Atelier Crenn (3127 Fillmore St., San Francisco). The woman behind this modern French restaurant, Dominique Crenn, is one of culinary world’s most decorated queer chefs. Crenn was the first female chef in the U.S. to receive a second Michelin star (the restaurant now has three) and has been referred to as “the world’s best female chef,” though she’s on the record about not wanting her talent qualified by gender. The sole dining option here is a top-tier pescatarian tasting menu, served in a chic, mid-century modern dining room over three hours.
Hang Ah Tea Room (1 Pagoda Pl., San Francisco). Given the communities that provide San Francisco its vibrancy, there are two local delicacies every trip to the city requires: burritos and dim sum. Tackling the latter, there’s nowhere quite like Hang Ah Tea Room. Hidden off the beaten path down an alleyway in Chinatown, this restaurant is a piece of Asian-American history. With more than 100 years of service under its belt, Hang Ah is historic—it’s believed to be the first dim sum restaurant in America. Try the XO sauce pan-fried turnip cake or the steamed char siu bao; a dim sum classic made via a secret recipe.
La Taqueria (2889 Mission St., San Francisco). Locals love to debate the best burrito in San Francisco, especially in the Mission district, a part of town so associated with burritos it originated the beloved style of burrito now sold at places like Chipotle. The “Mission Burrito” is often attributed to La Taqueria, which has remained a Mission staple for 50 years. Expect a lineup, the restaurant is typically as packed as its burritos.
Zuni Café (1658 Market St., San Francisco). This simple but elegant southwest restaurant has held a reputation as one of San Francisco’s finest for decades, but it’s also a piece of queer history, having been founded by Billy West, one of the most successful gay restaurateurs of the ’80s. In those days, West staffed the restaurant with gay folks who served a clientele that saw well-heeled politicians seated a table away from lesbians in T-shirts. Though West died of HIV/AIDS in 1994, the restaurant is still revered for its uncomplicated approach to cuisine—and for its delicious roasted chicken.
Where to party
Oasis (298 11th St., San Francisco). One part nightclub, one part performance space, this is a drag bar designed by actual drag queens. The club is owned and operated by San Francisco’s first Drag Laureate, D’Arcy Drollinger, and SF legend Heklina was once part-owner. Without a doubt the best place to see queer performance art in the city, Oasis retains the fearless spirit that made San Francisco a hub for alternative drag in the first place with programming like “Reparations,” an all-Black drag show that gives a well-manicured middle finger to white supremacy.
Mother Bar (3079 16th St., San Francisco). San Francisco has something most major cities in North America lack: more than one bar aimed at queer women. The latest is Mother Bar, a “women and femme centred” watering hole opened in early 2023 where hot women—and the queers who love them—sing karaoke, watch soccer games and movies and lust over drag kings.
Arcana (2512 Mission St., San Francisco). A hip, mixed crowd gathers in this natural wine bar meets multi-use space that houses a vegan/vegetarian restaurant, a plant shop and a lush, plant-filled “mystical living room” that transforms from a dance floor to a dining room depending on the event. Owned by a queer activist originally from Iran, Naz Khorram, Arcana features a unique mix of programming from chilled out wine tastings to comedy shows, drag and political events.
Jolene’s (2700 16th St., San Francisco). What if we kissed under the light-up “You are safe here” sign at Jolene’s? Named after its owner, local nightlife legend Jolene Linsangan, creator of the long-running and cleverly named lesbian party Uhaul, this is an inclusive queer space that plays to the entire community, but saves extra space on its dimly-lit dance floor for queer women and trans folks. There’s pool tournaments, power suit contests and a happy hour for lesbian singles.
The Eagle (398 12th St., San Francisco). Classic in the right way, this is one of the granddaddies of leather daddy bars. With roots dating back to the early ’80s, The Eagle has contributed so much to local gay and leather culture that the city designated it as a landmark. Expect the usual leather and kink scene, plus lots of pup events and a massive patio.
Wild Side West (424 Cortland Ave., San Francisco) At once a neighbourhood institution and a laid-back lesbian bar, Wild Side West helped create new space for queer folks outside of the Castro when it moved to its current home in Bernal Heights back in the late ’70s. The magical backyard garden still contains remnants of that era: local bigots dumped trash, including a broken toilet, in front of the bar to protest its opening. But the owners simply kept it and turned it into an art piece for their mini sculpture garden. While it’s a queer space, Wild Side West’s also a sports bar with pool tables and flat-screens for game days.
Lookout (3600 16th St., San Francisco). The views at Golden Gate Park are great, but the ones here are even better. Lookout has a wraparound balcony in the centre of the Castro, offering the perfect perch for casual cruising. Drop by any time for drinks or make a reservation for the low-cost Lips and Lashes drag brunch on Saturdays. Don’t worry, there’s a 2 p.m. seating for the hungover crowd.
Where to gear up
Decades of Fashion (1653 Haight St., San Francisco). The doors to this vintage paradise are a portal to another time. Or, more accurately, to every period in fashion from the 1880s to the 1980s, a full century of style mapped out on racks of premium vintage. There’s all sorts of costume and even museum-worthy clothing here, but plenty is wearable, too. Shopping at Decades of Fashion is an experience in itself; the store even provides gloves to wear when sorting through its more delicate pieces.
DECADES OF FASHION IS OPEN! Wednesday to Friday 12 to 7pm
— Decades of Fashion (@decadesofashion) December 12, 2020
Saturday 11 to 7pm
Sunday 12 to 6pm
Closed Mondays & Tuesdays pic.twitter.com/zDeESZIC8j
Bolerium Books (2141 Mission St., #300, San Francisco) Owned by a gay couple, this specialty book shop is a hidden gem on the third-floor of an Art Deco building in the Mission. The couple’s massive collection of literary rarities is focused on social justice, particularly labour rights and the communities who have contributed to San Francisco’s vibrant culture, including Asian-American activism, the struggle for Chicano equality and the Gay liberation movement. It’s by appointment only, so call ahead.
Queer Arts Featured (575 Castro St., San Francisco). The address 575 Castro Street has a historic significance: it was Harvey Milk’s camera shop, Castro Camera, then his campaign headquarters when he ran for municipal office in the 1970s. In 2022, a trio of queers took over the space to create Queer Arts Featured (Queer A.F. for short), an artist-led gallery, boutique and event space that shows art of all mediums from emerging artists across the Bay Area.
Machi (1692 Haight St., San Francisco). With a fun fur-covered wall, a floating bubble chair and a sea of kawaii tchotchkes, Machi is the most Instagrammable boutique in the Haight. The shop has Y2K vintage mixed in with wares from its house streetwear brand and clothes from emerging designers, all with an eye to size inclusivity and non-gendered shopping.
Good Vibrations (603 Valencia St., San Francisco). The vibes at this shop aren’t just good, they’re immaculate. Founded in the ’70s with a focus on female pleasure, Good Vibrations expanded from a single shop to a local chain with three shops across the city and a huge online presence. The store eventually became a worker-owned co-op and expanded its mission to serving up sex-positivity across the gender spectrum. It’s not your average sex shop: Good Vibrations employs an in-house sexologist and hosts workshops on topics ranging from anal to harnessing the power of a strap-on. Visit the Polk Street location during the afternoon for a look at its Antique Vibrator Museum.
Leather Etc (1201 Folsom St., San Francisco). Housed in the Leather District, Leather Etc has a massive inventory of leather and kink gear from bondage restraints to floggers, harnesses and an impressive array of leather kilts.
Editor’s note: During the research for this piece, Pink Ticket Travel received support from San Francisco Travel and from Proper Hotel San Francisco; they did not direct or review coverage. The views expressed are the writer’s own.
