Lima doesn’t conjure the most glamorous images for hedonistic vacationers. From April to November, the Peruvian capital city is often shrouded in a grey cloud veil that darkens its steep oceanside cliffs, casting shadows over its bougainvillea vines. It’s dramatic but moody—not what we picture when we think of sunny South America. The cliffs separate the city from the beach, where jogging and surfing, not tanning, are the preferred activities, even in the sunniest months, from January to March. However, a word to the wise: Never judge a city by its beach. The reasons to visit Lima, a city of more than 12 million, are primarily cultural and culinary—and the gay life’s fun, too.
Many international travellers get only a cursory glance at Lima when they stop here on their way to the charming city of Cuzco, whose history goes back to the Incas who ruled the Andes when the Spanish arrived in 1532, and Machu Picchu, the mysterious UNESCO World Heritage site that graces so many desktop backgrounds. But travellers spending a few days here, even a week or more, will discover Lima’s many charms—and maybe even fall in love.
As one of the biggest cities in South America, Lima is Peru’s main point of contact with the rest of the world. Visitors will likely spend most of their time in two areas: on the checkerboard streets of the colonial city centre, which conquistador Francisco Pizarro founded in 1535; and in the beachside neighbourhoods of Miraflores and Barranco. History is always layered. Even in the midst of Miraflores’s chic restaurants, bars and boutiques, where trends are up-to-the-minute, you can find the massive 1,500-year-old pyramid Huaca Pucllana (s/n Ca. Gral. Borgoño, Miraflores), one of the city’s great archaeological treasures.
Peru, which until very recently had been named one of the world’s fast-growing economies, remains a tad behind other South American countries in terms of LGBTQ+ rights. While same-gender sexual relations have been legal since 1924 and LGBTQ+-related discrimination was banned in 2017, the country remains fiercely Roman Catholic. Same-gender couples remain bashful on the streets, and equal marriage hasn’t been legalized yet. (It’ll be interesting to see if Pope Francis’s decision to allow the blessing of same-gender relationships will have any effect on Peruvian attitudes.) Lima is, of course, more liberal than the rest of the country. Whether you’re wandering the mural-lined alleys of Barranco or window-shopping in Miraflores, you’ll find queers in every nook and cranny.
Like in many cities, Lima’s gay nightlife took a hit after COVID; the remaining clubs are, conveniently, in Centro and Miraflores. Still, there are enough LGBTQ+-friendly bars, restaurants, galleries, museums and cultural performances to keep visitors busy. Take Barranco, for instance, a Technicolor hodgepodge of cafés, street art, former colonial mansions and wrought-iron gates. Amid the open-minded attitudes, which date back to the neighbourhood’s colonial-era bohemia, you’ll find the restaurant Central (Av. Pedro de Osma 301, Barranco, Lima), which in 2023 took the number one spot on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Have a meal here after a day of admiring Barranco’s street murals and catching a street performance, but skip dessert for a street vendor’s picarón instead—a delectable Peruvian doughnut.
If you’re after sleek architecture and a faster-paced life, then Miraflores might be more your speed. This cosmopolitan barrio is home to Peru’s top gay nightlife destination, ValeTodo DownTown (Ca. los Pinos 172, Miraflores, Lima), as well as the city’s best chifa, or Chinese-Peruvian cuisine. Elegant Parque Kennedy (Diagonal, Miraflores, Lima) makes for a good meeting spot and also accommodates a friendly local population of fuzzy, cuddly kittens.
History buffs will gravitate toward Centro, particularly its two main squares, Plaza de Armas and Plaza Bolívar, which contain many of the city’s colonial architectural masterpieces—check out the enclosed wooden balconies. For even more history, of a somewhat scandalous kind, head just a bit west to Museo Larco (Av. Simón Bolivar 1515, enter at Navarra 169, Pueblo Libre, Lima) to ogle the ancient phalluses (you read that right) in their acclaimed collection of pre-Columbian artifacts.
For all the history, art and food, the best part of Lima is los Limeños, who, though sometimes reserved, will heartily welcome any gringos who take an interest in their culture. The city is a bastion of accents, dialects, ethnicities and world views. As you eat your way around the city, as you should, you’ll encounter countless friendly Peruvians itching to show off their surroundings. Some may even mention Peru’s unique climate and geography, which generates the treasure trove of spices and herbs responsible for their world-renowned cuisine.
Tips? The city has expanded exponentially in recent decades due to urban sprawl—some of the neighbourhoods between the fun, safe ones can have a little edge. Getting around by Uber can reduce travel times and make travellers feel more secure.
Even if you do come during the grey season of June to September, Limeños say that if you cross Barranco’s El Puente de los Suspiros (Jr. Batallón 271, Barranco, Lima), or Bridge of Sighs, while holding your breath, then all of your dreams will come true. So, if you make the right wish and walk all the way across without gasping for air, the sun will shine down upon all of Peru.
What to see and do
El Puente de los Suspiros (Jr. Batallón 271, Barranco, Lima). This very skinny 150-year-old wooden structure comes with a legend that says will make your wishes come true. It also serves as an entrypoint to the equally iconic Bajada de Baños, a lively alley leading to the beach, lined with cafés, galleries, music and restaurants.
Huaca Pucllana Site Museum (s/n Ca. Gral. Borgoño, Miraflores, Lima). This clay-brick relic of pre-Columbian Lima, part of a culture that was active between 200 AD and 700 AD, will catapult you back in time as you tour the pyramid’s cubby holes and archeological dig sites. There’s a good restaurant next door (check out our Where to eat section below).
Convento de San Francisco de Jesús (Jr. Lampa 154, Lima). The real draw of this religious site in the city’s historical centre is less its architecture, more its subterranean sepulchres . The artful arrays of old bones will haunt and move you.
Museo Larco (Av. Simón Bolivar 1515, enter at Navarra 169, Pueblo Libre, Lima). Known for its exhibition of pre-Incan, pre-Columbian regional art, Museo Larco also has a dirty secret. The real reason people come here is to view the room of ancient erotic art, which includes depictions of same-gender acts in its midst.
Monumental Callao (250 Constitucion, Callao, Lima). Once just a decrepit port zone of Lima, Callao now boasts an up-and-coming shopping, arts and events district known as “Monumental Callao,” centred around Museo Fugaz Callao (Daniel Nieto 185, Callao, Lima).
Circuito Mágico del Agua (Puerta 5, Parque de la Reserva, Av. Petit Thouars, Lima). A perennial favourite for Limeños, this “Magic Circuit of Water” is composed of massive, dazzlingly lit fountains that form every shape and colour imaginable.
Where to stay
Hostal El Patio (Av. Ernesto Diez Canseco 341, Miraflores, Lima). This idyllic inn in Miraflores boasts kitchenettes, alluring decorative touches and a scrumptious Peruvian breakfast. The affordable spot is equidistant between the clubs and the coast.
Domeyer Hostel (Jirón Domeyer 296, Barranco, Lima). For budget-oriented travellers who want a whiff of Barranco’s bohemia, the Domeyer promises chic, queer-friendly coziness in the heart of the barrio.
Villa Barranco (Ca. Carlos Zegarra 274, Barranco, Lima). Inside the elaborate colonial façade, there is a funky, retro interior that melts contemporary into comfort. A perfect homebase for anyone tracking down Limeño street art.
Miraflores Park, a Belmond Hotel (Mal. de la Reserva 1035, Miraflores, Lima). As good as it gets in Miraflores. With two excellent restaurants, a languid sophistication and sweeping views of Lima’s coastline, the Belmond is a force to be reckoned with. The spotless rooms and impeccable service live up to its reputation.
Hotel B (Jirón Sáenz Peña 204, Barranco, Lima). Serving top-to-bottom Belle Époque realness, Hotel B rules over Barranco with haughty splendour. Even for those who don’t stay here, it’s worth a visit just to gawk at the stunning façade. Or step inside and take in the 300 works of art on display. Chef Franco Hurtado presides over the exclusive dining room.
Country Club Lima Hotel (Ca. Los Eucaliptos 590, San Isidro, Lima). This lavish resort-like property doesn’t just dazzle you, it whisks you into Lima’s far-flung past. Adorned with art on loan from the city’s Museo Pedro de Osma (Pedro de Osma 421, Barranco, Lima), this estate invites you to brilliant afternoon teas amid baroque tapestries and dark wood furniture.
Where to eat
Central (Av. Pedro de Osma 301, Barranco, Lima). Four of “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” are in Lima, and Central towers above the rest in the top spot. It’s hard to oversell the bold concept and flawless execution by chef and owner Virgilio Martínez Véliz and his team. All of its dishes, which represent the different ecosystems of Peru, are works of art.
Isolina (Av. San Martín 101, Barranco, Lima). The boisterous tavern-like atmosphere of Isolina belies the faultlessness of its cuisine. A distillation of Peru’s best meat dishes, this eternally crowded spot cooks every part of the cow—including ones you didn’t know you could eat.
Colonia & Co (Av. San Martín 131, Barranco, Lima). Famous for their bittersweet orange latte, Colonia & Co. deserves a shout-out among Barranco’s many café offerings. This casually lit, sparsely decorated literal hole in the wall has many great options for brunch-lovers.
La Mora Patisserie (Ca. José Galvez 491, Miraflores, Lima). You’ll want something succulent after your night on the town in Miraflores, so why not pop into La Mora, a.k.a. the Blackberry? You won’t have to worry about lines at this underrated corner café, and the desserts are perfect.
Restaurant Huaca Pucllana (Ca. Gral. Borgoño 860, Miraflores, Lima). Judging by its contemporary-Cuzco decor, you’d never guess that this polished palatial restaurant is next to a 1,500-year-old pyramid. But once you look out the window upon Huaca Pucllana, it’s hard to deny it. Don’t skip the cheesecake.
La Lucha Sangucheria Criolla (Av. Sta. Cruz 847, Miraflores, Lima). You’ll never want for fine dining in Lima. That said, you can’t get a real sense of the city’s culinary depth without trying some fast food. La Lucha, with its menagerie of tender, tasty sandwiches, is a superb LGBTQ+-friendly choice for diners in a rush.
Mayta (Av. Mariscal La Mar 1285, Miraflores, Lima). Another of Lima’s “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” entries, this eatery, whose name means “noble land” in Bolivian Spanish, will truly make you feel like a royal. The eye-popping entrées will transport you to the Amazon, fly you across the Andes and plunge you into the Pacific. That’s a lot of travel without leaving your seat!
Madam Tusan (Av. 28 de Julio 1045, Miraflores, Lima). Considering Lima is already a melting pot of peoples, it makes sense that it would also mix and match cuisines. From that melée arises chifa, a uniquely Chinese-Peruvian cuisine that takes no better form than at Madam Tusan. Try the sweet and sour chicken if you’re a chifa noob.
La Picaronería (Ca. Manco Cápac 513, Miraflores, Lima). Peru’s answer to the doughnut is a chewy ring of fried squash drenched in bittersweet chancaca sauce. There’s no better place to try this mouthwatering, unforgettable delicacy than at the homey Picaronería.
Maido (Ca. San Martín 399, Miraflores, Lima). Yet another entry in Peru’s catalogue of unique culinary creations, nikkei—Japanese-Peruvian cuisine—finds its apotheosis at Maido. The foodie thrills at this Miraflores hotspot are real, and it’s no small wonder that this restaurant regularly lands among the top 50 in the world.
Where to party
ValeTodo DownTown (Ca. los Pinos 168, Miraflores, Lima). This thumping discoteca is the biggest, sweatiest, sexiest gay club in Peru, with drag shows, go-go dancers, writhing young Peruvians and not-too-shabby drinks.
La Cueva (Av. Aviación 2514, San Borja, Lima). This (literally) underground disco is about 15 minutes from Miraflores via cab. For many gay revellers, it marks either the start or the end of the night. Drag, dancers and other shenanigans.
Sagitario (Av. Inca Garcilaso de la Vega 865, Centro, Lima). The drinks are cheap and the boys are naughty at this casually cool, pretension-free nightclub. This is where you come … for an NSA hookup. You don’t have to worry about bringing them back to your hotel room—there’s an adjacent sauna.
Picas (Bajada de Baños 340, Barranco, Lima). Barranco is bereft of gay bars; Picas is as gay-friendly as it gets. The artsy and campy queers come here to see and be seen, and to enjoy local music.
Ayahuasca (Av. San Martín 130, Barranco, Lima). The venue is as cool as its name. A converted colonial mansion complete with a basement that once belonged to the maidstaff, the queer-friendly Ayahuasca is a veritable labyrinth of fabulously decorated hallways and living rooms. Whether you’re here to dine or to dance, you’ll never forget the neon-lit walls or mysterious jars of formaldehyde that fill the shelves.
240 Club (Jirón Tarma 240, Centro, Lima). This exclusively gay spa includes two Turkish rooms, a Finnish room, a TV room and a bar. It’s the most popular sauna in the city and is known for its cleanliness.
Assia Spa for Men (Gonzáles Prada 433, Surquillo, Lima). This new gay sauna is just outside Miraflores. They have theme nights including blackout Tuesdays and bear nights.
Where to gear up
NASA Vogue (Ca. Elias Aguirre 271, Miraflores, Lima). For skimpy men’s underwear, swimwear and workout wear, head to this boutique dedicated to bearing your flesh.
Sexite (Jirón de la Unión 853, second floor of Galleria Boza, shop 213, Centro, Lima). A little more fetishy and outrageous than what they have at NASA Vogue, this is where Lima men come for jockstraps, thongs and other provocative items.
Larcomar (Mal. de la Reserva 610, Miraflores, Lima). The gays love Larcomar, a luxe seaside mall with splendid views, high-end brands, delicious food carts and entertainment for days. You can even go bowling.
Miraflores Indian Market (Av. Petit Thouars 5321, Miraflores, Lima). You can’t visit Peru without picking up an authentic alpaca scarf or two. Ambling among the woven rugs, splendiferous silver crafts and sinuous jewellery, you can haggle to your heart’s content.
La Fería Unión de Barranco (Jiron Unión 108, Barranco, Lima). Grab a bubble tea and explore the eclectic booths at this weekly street fair. You’ll find souvenirs, designer sweaters, specialty coffees, artisan cookware, homemade sweets and antiques. The crowds are friendly and the vibes are endlessly positive at this Barranco institution.
