The first thing people notice about Copenhagen is the bikes. On every street, no matter how busy, hundreds of people are biking to work, school or social activities.
The second thing to notice is all the strapping people on those bikes. Ruddy-cheeked, tall and often blond, the Danes are essentially modern-day Vikings; they’re one of the sights visitors love to see.
Finally, there’s the beautiful city itself surrounding those bike-riding broad-shouldered Vikings. This bustling capital, with a population of 654,000, contrasts cutting-edge, award-winning architecture with quaint cobblestone streets and 17th-century mansions. The sculpted ships in the harbour, invigorating fresh air, orderly throughways and colourful homes all conspire to create true fairy-tale chic. It’s easy to see why Danes are consistently among the world’s happiest people.
But they aren’t just happy. They’re also gay—the city frequently lands on lists of LGBTQ+-friendly places. There’s no definable gay neighbourhood partly because, as Danes put it, Copenhagen as a whole is considered “the gay village of Northern Europe.” LGBT+ Denmark, the country’s first organization for queer Danes, has existed since 1948. The country became the first in the world to provide same-gender civil partnerships back in 1989, then legalized same-gender marriage in 2021. In 2017, Denmark became the first country in the world to completely remove trans identity as a mental health diagnosis.
Good for the Danes. Visitors, however, might be more interested in queer cultural festivals like Copenhagen Pride Week (August 10 to 18 in 2024), Winter Pride, usually in February, and the MIX CPH LGBTQIA+ Film Festival (October 25 to November 3 in 2024), which are all excellent ways to mix and mingle with the local hotties. The boroughs of Vesterbro, Nørrebro and Østerbro are popular neighbourhoods for a hang, where you’ll find lots of non-hets around.
Copenhagen loves its queer history
Founded in 1167, Copenhagen has almost a full millennium under its belt. Copenhageners are aware of the role that queer people played in that history. Picturesque City Hall, built between 1892 and 1905 in what’s called the National Romantic style, filed the paperwork on the first 11 same-gender civil partnerships back in 1989, and every Pride, there’s a tradition of couples stopping by City Hall to tie the knot.
Considering the queer activism going back to the early 20th century, it shouldn’t be a surprise that the city is home to perhaps the world’s oldest gay bar, Centralhjørnet (Kattesundet 18, København), founded in 1917. The locals, especially older ones, love to stop by this smoky, nationally famous spot for a beer and to make connections with the city’s queer community.
Centralhjørnet is just one of many LGBTQ+ establishments near the historic centre of Copenhagen. There are more than 30 queertastic bars, cafés and restaurants around Studiestræde. Our favourites include Cosy Bar (Studiestræde 24, København), which lives up to its name thanks to its cozy dance floor; Jailhouse CPH (Studiestræde 12, København), which plays up its prison theme (the black-and-white pillows recall cartoonish prison attire, while the handsome bartenders sport police uniforms); the subterranean, hypnotic Never Mind (Axeltorv 3, København), which offers late-night dancing; and the speakeasy-style Vela (2-4, Viktoriagade, København), the go-to club for queer women.
For a more bohemian experience, visit the semi-autonomous borough of Christiania, which in the 1970s was transformed from military barracks into a thriving hippie community after squatters took over. The neighbourhood’s Bøssehuset (Mælkevejen 69D, København), which translates as “Gay House,” was the site of some of Copenhagen’s earliest radical queer assemblies and still hosts queer plays, art exhibitions and wild parties.
Enjoy the great outdoors
Denmark has two fantastic things going for it in the summer: 20 hours of daylight and no laws prohibiting nudity. Though Denmark has designated nude beaches, it also has nude parks, nude piers, nude lakes and … well, you get the picture. Svanemølle Beach, located in the Østerbro district of Copenhagen, is designated clothing-optional, if you like things official. But it’s not weird to see breasts and butts in the course of a day, particularly in Copenhagen’s parks. The water all around the harbour city is pristine; truly, you can jump off any quay and not worry about contracting some disease. Guided tours, bike rentals and boat excursions are available from vendors around downtown.
Of course, Copenhagen’s greatest gift to the gay world is Ørstedsparken (Nørre Voldgade 1, København). Don’t be fooled by its description on Google Maps: Ørstedsparken is no “children’s playground.” Well, not at night anyway. Since public sex is not policed within these hallowed walls, the park transforms into a cruising free-for-all after hours. There are even helpful signs reminding you to “remove semen from the benches after the act.”
Cruising in Ørstedsparken can make you part of history. According to Danish historians, the site has been an after-dark playground for horny adults for more than 150 years.
Feed your inner foodie
Denmark’s most famous culinary offering, smørrebrød, is an open-faced sandwich that frequently features pickled herring. Stegt flæsk, a crispy pork delicacy, is also popular among tourists. Beyond traditional dishes, Copenhagen has a splashy culinary scene, with many of its restaurants taking the top spot on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Noma (Refshalevej 96, København K), scheduled to close at the end of 2024, arguably put Copenhagen on the international culinary map. The mecca serves locally foraged seasonal cuisine in an airy, beige-palette setting. Clean food is centred here with greenhouses flanking the front doors.
Alchemist (Refshalevej 173C, København K) transports patrons into another world. Beneath the dome-shaped roof and among its kaleidoscopic décor, patrons feast on rare caviar and pigeon aged in beeswax.
Geranium (Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8. Sal, København) puts clever spins on local delicacies amid blond wood and Scandinavian art objects.
Juno the bakery (Århusgade 48, København) is a perfect and simple café. Try the cardamom bun and the almond croissant.
Of course, you’ll need somewhere to crash after all this eating and bar hopping. Hotel SP34 (Sankt Peders Stræde 34, København) marries hip design with historic surroundings. It also has a rooftop terrace and a private cinema. Manon Les Suites (Gyldenløvesgade 19, København V) takes design inspiration from coastal Indonesia (think Bali). Urban House Copenhagen (Colbjørnsensgade 5, 11, København) provides low-key luxury for the budget-minded.
Or you could just bike into the countryside and live off the land like a true Dane. After all this smørrebrød eating, Viking hunting and park cruising, you may never want to leave Copenhagen. And we wouldn’t blame you.
