With Table Mountain, Lion’s Head mountain, Devil’s Peak and Signal Hill looming behind beaches, boardwalks and busy portlands, Cape Town, South Africa, is a postcard-pretty destination. And the city of about 4.7 million people is a perfect launching pad for other South African adventures like safaris, wine tours and cruises around the southern tip of Africa and beyond.
But Cape Town’s true magic, for those who can bear to put their cameras down for a while, lies in exploring the layers and layers of its social history, including an astonishingly resilient queer culture that survived the darkest days of Apartheid and which flourishes today. For LGBTQ+ people, it’s a beacon on a continent that, on the official level, at least, outside of South Africa, has issues with us. Openly gay political candidates run for office here without voters so much as batting an eye. Discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender has been prohibited since the country’s post-Apartheid constitution came into effect in 1994. In 2006, South Africa became the fifth country in the world to legalize same-gender marriage; it’s still the only country in Africa to permit it, and Cape Town has certainly hosted its fair share of queer weddings.
Cape Town’s cosmopolitanism has been nurtured, at least in part, by its long and complicated colonial history, dating back to 1652, which brought Dutch, British and French influences from Europe; as well as people, food, culture and religion from Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia, regions that were a source of slaves and indentured workers for European colonizers. French-style wines from nearby vineyards, Cape Malay–style curries, British-style high teas, as well as local dishes with even longer local histories, like chakalaka and bobotie, are all part of the Cape Town experience.
These days, the stylish neighbourhood of De Waterkant, home to many but not all of Cape Town’s LGBTQ+ venues (more details in our listings below), is encircled by pink lines on the sidewalk that mark queer territory, while the intersection of Somerset Road and Dixon Street boasts the only rainbow crosswalk on the African continent (as well as a sexy gay mural). Many Cape Town Pride events, which usually happen in March, take place here. In De Waterkant, visitors can dine and take in a performance at a gay-owned restaurant-cabaret, head over to a gay cocktail bar where dancing breaks out close to midnight, then skip over to a late-night gay club, all within a few minutes of each other. This compact queer-and-hipster universe is about a 20-minute walk away from the V&A Waterfront, a mixed-use neighbourhood of boutiques, restaurants, galleries, hotels and working port areas, designed for photo ops and credit card overuse.
Queer history buffs will also want to visit District Six. As early as the 1950s, the multi-ethnic residential neighbourhood, just east of the city centre, was a playground for local queers, a place where gay parties and drag balls took place. A 1960s-era hairdresser and performer known as Kewpie, who used feminine pronouns and might today be considered transgender, was something of a local celebrity. As part of Apartheid’s Group Areas Act (1950), which restricted where different racial groups could live, more than 60,000 District Six residents were removed from their homes, starting in 1966. Much of the district was bulldozed to turn it into a “whites-only” neighbourhood. But there are still remnants of that earlier bohemian spirit, documented at the District Six Museum (25A Buitenkant St., District Six, Cape Town), and channelled into more contemporary markets, restaurants, boutiques and galleries that have been springing up in the area. Cape Town’s Black-oriented gay bar is located here, carrying on Kewpie’s legacy.
Culturalistas will want to spend time strolling fashionable Kloof Street, a shopping-and-eating destination starting at Buitensingel Street and extending toward Table Mountain and into the affluent Gardens district. The Labia Theatre (68 Orange St., Gardens, Cape Town), though not as sapphic as its name would have you believe, is a historic cinema that’s worth visiting for the architecture as much as for the programming.
Other key Cape Town stomping grounds for visitors are the waterfront neighbourhoods of Green Point, Sea Point, Clifton and the ultraposh Camps Bay, which are squeezed between Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Signal Hill and the Atlantic Ocean. Though not quite as of-the-moment as De Waterkant and Kloof Street, these areas are littered with small and mid-sized hotels and restaurants, and they offer access to beaches both sandy and rocky.
Cape Town is an extraordinarily multicultural city, with more than 40 percent of its population being categorized as mixed race (“coloured” in the Apartheid era), 39 percent Black, 16 percent white and about three percent Asian, Indian or “other.” Though equality across a broad spectrum of identities is guaranteed under the 1994 Bill of Rights, there are still economic inequalities and barriers to access. Visitors will notice that some spaces are more mixed than others.
Cape Town’s unemployment rate has been high, and the crime rate makes many people, including locals, nervous about walking around the city at night. Hotel staff might encourage guests to take an Uber to their destination. In areas where upscale businesses are dense—like De Waterkant, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront and Kloof Street—private security at various venues usually provides a “halo” of safety, allowing visitors to feel at ease on the streets. The entertainment district along Long Street, between Riebeek and Buitensingel streets—brimming with pubs and clubs targeting straight partiers—has its own security team and is well policed. Some shopping and dining districts have been created as self-contained hubs, which further increases the sense of security. Everyone has their own comfort level, but even the most confident travellers should avoid flashing their phone or money in public. Of course, most people you will encounter out and about will be friendly and helpful. Cape Towners, and South Africans in general, know how to have a good time, and how to show visitors a good time.
With all that said, here are our recommendations for what to do and see, where to stay, eat, party and shop in LGBTQ+ Cape Town.
Pride
Cape Town Pride (usually held in March, various venues). A month-long calendar of events leads up to a parade through the Waterkant district, followed by a mardi gras–style party. The first Pride parade here was held in 1993, three years after the end of Apartheid. Though not as big as Johannesburg Pride, it’s a festive, emotional and political event that evokes tears and smiles.
What to see and do
Table Mountain. This flat-topped mountain, which has an elevation of 1,085 metres, is Cape Town’s most iconic attraction. Is it possible to take a photo in Cape Town without it in the background? Along with Lion’s Head, Devil’s Peak and Signal Hill, it creates the “city bowl,” the amphitheatre-shaped topography that cradles many of the neighbourhoods that are of interest to visitors. Rotating cable cars bring visitors from the apron of the mountain to its top in about five minutes. It can get busy, so those who lack patience can pay extra to jump the queue with a fast-track ticket. Those with more patience, and better knees, have a choice of five official hiking routes to the top, each quite challenging and taking about an hour and a half. Pay attention to the weather when deciding when to visit Table Mountain; clouds get stuck up there, obscuring the view.
Lion’s Head. Somewhat less challenging a hike than Table Mountain, it should take a casual hiker about an hour and 15 minutes to get to the top. The Lion’s Head route winds around the 669-metre peak, providing an array of views of the city. It’s a popular outing for sunrise and/or sunset. As hikers near the top, there’s a choice of “recommended” route or a faster route where ladders and chains are required. Make your decision carefully.
V&A Waterfront. Shiny modern architecture, museums, galleries, canals, a swing bridge, a Ferris wheel and a big mall, as well as many boutiques and restaurants, make this waterfront stroll a delightful one. Street entertainers put on surprisingly polished impromptu shows. There’s a cruise ship terminal here, as well as a working port, so there’s always something happening out in the harbour.
Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (V&A Waterfront Silo District, S. Arm Rd., Waterfront, Cape Town). The world’s largest museum of contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora is housed in a decommissioned grain silo that, on the inside, feels like a concrete cathedral. Queer artists are celebrated in both its permanent collection and the thoughtful special exhibitions that take up the bulk of the museum’s real estate. A must-visit for anyone interested in contemporary art and architecture. Plunked on top of the silo, with its bulging gem-like windows, is the luxurious Silo Hotel.
Robben Island Museum (Robben Island, reachable by ferry from the Nelson Mandela Gateway at the V&A Waterfront). This World Heritage site, about 7.4 kilometres off the coast of Cape Town, was used to imprison people starting in the 17th century. Its most famous prisoner was anti-Apartheid activist Nelson Mandela, who spent 18 of his 27 years in prison here, before going on, in 1994, to become the first president of South Africa. It’s an emotionally tough tour, made all the more moving because the guides are former prisoners.
Iziko Museums of South Africa (South African National Gallery, Government Ave., Gardens, Cape Town; and Social History Centre, 17 Church Square, City Centre, Cape Town, as well as nine other museums). This organization of 11 Cape Town–area museums has properties dedicated to social history, natural history and art. Perhaps the two of greatest interest to visitors are the National Gallery, which features special exhibitions and a permanent collection of historic, modern and contemporary works (and yes, there is usually queer content); and the Social History Centre, which has exhibits on southern African archaeological, Indigenous and colonial cultures.
District Six Museum (25a Buitenkant St., District Six, Cape Town). One of the Apartheid era’s many horrors was the Group Areas Act of 1950, which assigned its four officially defined racial groups to different residential and business areas. In 1966, this vibrant multi-ethnic downtown district was declared a “White Group” area, and, over the course of a couple of decades, as many 60,000 people were forced to move out. Among its many goals, this community-based museum documents the life of District Six before it was razed. That includes photos of its 1950s and ’60s queer culture, personified in the local hairdresser and drag performer Kewpie; the gift shop sells bags emblazoned with her image.
Bo Kaap. With its multicoloured buildings and cobblestone streets, this compact, hilly neighbourhood was established, under Dutch colonialism, as a place where enslaved/indentured workers from the Dutch East Indies, particularly what is now Indonesia, were housed. The area still has a strong Muslim heritage and there are several mosques, as well as shops selling the ingredients for making delicious Cape Malay curries.
The Company’s Garden (bounded by Wale, Queen Victoria, Orange and St. John’s streets). The Dutch East India Company took a liking to Cape Town back in 1652 because the tip of Africa made a good place to take a break on voyages between Europe and what is now Indonesia. Ships would stop here to stock up on fresh produce, which was grown in—wait for it—the company’s garden. These days it’s a nicely maintained green oasis in the city centre, surrounded by many of the city’s important buildings, including museums, the parliament buildings, the national library and St. George’s Cathedral.
Afrigay. This Cape Town–based gay-owned and gay-focused travel company offers a six-day “glitter trail” bus tour along the Garden Route of South Africa’s Western Cape, ending in Cape Town. They can also build custom itineraries for group tours, outdoor adventures, destination weddings and honeymoons.
Escape to the Cape. This mainstream LGBTQ+-friendly tour company provides a broad range of private and scheduled tours, including shopping, culinary and art tours. Want to go skydiving, shark cage diving or helicopter riding? They can make it happen.
Where to stay
Many of Cape Town’s most touristy areas encircle Signal Hill and Lion’s Head—and so do most hotels, guest houses and hostels. Where you want to spend most of your time will strongly influence your choice of accommodation. We’re suggesting LGBTQ+-friendly places in a variety of districts.
Pullman Cape Town City Centre (22 Riebeek St., City Centre, Cape Town). A Radisson Blu until 2023, the Pullman team has done an outstanding job of putting their distinctive service-oriented stamp on the property. This elegant five-star hotel sits in a sweet spot of the city centre that’s close to the De Waterkant and Gardens districts, the Long Street entertainment area and the V&A Waterfront (they’ve got a shuttle that will take you there in lieu of the 20-minute walk). The gym has a view, and the outdoor pool can get scene-y in the summertime.
De Waterkant Cottages (1 Sand Hill Rd., De Waterkant, Cape Town). The gaybourhood doesn’t have many large hotel properties, so why not rent one of these cottages, villas and studios scattered around some of the cuter streets of the ’hood? Behind their brightly coloured facades are upscale amenities, including kitchens and terraces, all a very short distance from gay nightlife.
Old Foundry Hotel (16 Ebenezer Rd., De Waterkant, Cape Town). Each of these 24 lofty rooms has its own eclectic character. The property is attached to a private club, which offers working spaces, a gym and other facilities.
Cape Milner (2 Milner Rd., Tamboerskloof, Cape Town). In a hillside neighbourhood adjacent to Gardens and Bo-Kaap, and a couple of minutes’ walk from trendy Kloof Street, this indie hotel offers convenience and charm. The design is upscale rustic, but guests will be mostly looking out their window at the Table Mountain views.
Mount Nelson (76 Orange St., Gardens, Cape Town). If you’re looking to pamper yourself (or maybe you’re accustomed to luxury—we didn’t ask how much you were worth), it’s hard to beat this Belmond property. Founded in 1899, it feels like a country resort, despite its close proximity to everything. Pools, tennis courts, fitness centre. If a stay is out of your price range (or you’ve grown tired of sleeping in beautifully appointed rooms and getting fabulous service), then drop by for their famous high tea, served Wednesday to Sunday at noon and 3 p.m.
The Grand Daddy Boutique Hotel (38 Long St., City Centre, Cape Town). Located in the Long Street entertainment zone, this hotel is a bit of a party itself, as it hosts a naughty (though pretty straight) cabaret show in its Alice in Wonderland–themed restaurant. But what Grand Daddy is best known for are the seven Airstream trailers on its rooftop, each of the “rooms” with its own distinctive designer décor. Campy camping. And very private.
Mojo Hotel (30 Regent Rd., Sea Point, Cape Town). With a nice price point and bright, funky rooms, this fun little hotel is just a short walk from the Sea Point Promenade, and many rooms have an ocean view. But what’s really handy for those who have a hard time deciding where to eat is that the ground floor is dedicated to the Mojo Market, a food hall with 30 vendors as well as live entertainment.
Where to eat
Honey & Dora (55 Prestwich St., De Waterkant, Cape Town). The name comes from Gayle, an English- and Afrikaans-based gay slang where “honey” means food and “dora” means drinks. If that’s not gay enough for you, owner JP Van Huyssteen has decorated the resto-bar-performance space with photos of queer icons from Freddie Mercury to Brandi Carlile, and the place is managed by married gay couple Cary-Lee Van Der Poel Jonkers and Antonio Jean-Claude Van Der Poel. The menu’s got everything from burgers to pasta to ostrich fillets, but it’s also a nice place for a cocktail or glass of wine. Swing by on a comedy night.
Café Manhattan (74 Waterkant St., De Waterkant, Cape Town). The longest-running gay venue in Cape Town has lasted this long by being versatile: snacks, light meals, steak dinner, smart cocktails, boisterous nights out with friends, flirting—there’s room for it all at this cheeky venue, even if it overflows onto the terrace.
Kloof Street House (30 Kloof St., Gardens, Cape Town). This sprawling Victorian mansion, with many tchotchke-filled rooms and two fairy-light gardens, will make you want to wrap yourself in pearls or put on a bow tie and pose for fashion magazines. It’s got style to spare. It would be romantic if it wasn’t so bustling. The menu is built on beef, lamb, salmon, ostrich, prawns—and some veggie options, too.
GOLD (15 Bennett St., Green Point, Cape Town). It would be a little cheesy if it weren’t so well thought out, marvellously executed and tremendously entertaining. Guests enjoy a 14-dish tasting menu while experiencing music, performances and puppetry from South Africa and other parts of Africa. Come early and play drums along with a leader and your fellow diners.
Bo-Kaap Kombuis (7 August St., Schotsche Kloof, Cape Town). The label “Cape Malay,” which you hear a lot in Cape Town, is somewhat misleading. Rather than referring to people, culture and food from Malaysia, as you might guess, it refers to a Muslim community in South Africa that has roots in many parts of the world, mostly Indonesia. The Bo-Kaap district, with its colourfully painted houses, is still home to many Cape Malay people and businesses, including this authentic Cape Malay restaurant. The cuisine here is halal and curry-based, though the flavours are traditionally not so spicy. The views are also great.
Time Out Market Cape Town (The Old Power Station, Dock Rd., V&A Waterfront, Cape Town). This iteration of the U.K.-based international food hall brand has a wide selection of cuisines, including some affordable options from top-rated chefs (Peter Tempelhoff of Fyn fame operates Ramenhead and Sushiya here). The venue also hosts shows and special events.
Karibu (Shop 156, Breakwater Blvd., V&A Waterfront, Cape Town). Cape Town’s food scene is so global, visitors might be wondering, “Where can I get some South African food?” This African fusion restaurant serves classics like bobotie, potjiekos, snoek braai, putu and chakalaka, but also beef skewers, curries and schnitzel.
Fyn (5th floor, Speakers Corner, 37 Parliament St., City Centre, Cape Town). Regularly making global best-restaurant lists, this elegant-but-casual spot serves its own take on Afro-Japanese cuisine. It’s an elevated experience but also a reminder of what a good value South African restaurants provide—you’d pay two or three times more for this level of dining in Europe or the United States.
Mojo Market (30 Regent Rd., Sea Point, Cape Town). This lively food hall has 30 vendors, as well as live entertainment. A great place to stop for a snack during a walk along the shoreline.
Where to party
Honey & Dora (55 Prestwich St., De Waterkant, Cape Town). Although you may come to this gay-owned and operated resto-bar for a bite to eat, you’ll stay to work your way through a bottle of wine or to catch one of the occasional performances.
Café Manhattan (74 Waterkant St., De Waterkant, Cape Town). The longest-running gay venue in Cape Town has lasted this long by being versatile: snacks, light meals, steak dinner, smart cocktails, boisterous nights out with friends, flirting—there’s room for it all at this cheeky venue, even if it overflows onto the terrace.
Crew Bar (10 Cobern St., De Waterkant, Cape Town). On weekdays or early in the evenings, this cheekily decorated gay spot is the perfect place for a date, a catch-up with friends or some low-key flirting, perhaps with the hottie barmen. But things start cooking after 11 p.m. on the weekend when, lo and behold, a door opens on one side of the main room to reveal a full-on dancefloor waiting for patrons to break out their moves.
The Pink Candy Nightclub (120 Strand St., De Waterkant, Cape Town). Cape Town’s biggest late-night gay club is a true old-school nightclub: many patrons reserve booths for groups of friends to enjoy bottle service together. If that’s not your scene, the dancefloor is big and the pop-dance music will keep you on your feet, perhaps until closing time at 4 a.m.
Zer021 Social Club (46 Canterbury St., District Six, Cape Town). The De Waterkant scene can sometimes feel a little white. Maybe because of all the tourists. This super-inclusive rooftop lounge-bar, located in what was, pre-Apartheid, Cape Town’s queerest and most diverse neighbourhood, evens things out. A friendly eager-to-have fun crowd and the most high-energy drag shows in town.
Beefcakes (Sovereign Quay, 40 Somerset Rd., Green Point, Cape Town). Famous for its hunky servers/go-go boys (it’s a big moment when the gents take their shirts off) and hilarious drag shows, this burger bar is so well known and so popular, LGBTQ+ guests can be outnumbered by bachelorette parties. Wacky, camp fun. There are two other locations, one in Greater Johannesburg and one in Pretoria.
Where gay and bi men can find fun
Shaft Cruise Zone (299 Lower Main Rd., Observatory, Cape Town). This large two-storey bathhouse-sex club hybrid attracts guys of all ages and backgrounds. Don’t let their cheerful rainbow-unicorn mascot fool you—this is a place for naughty fun. But it’s also a great place for a few drinks at the bar among the chatty patrons.
Where to shop
The Book Lounge (71 Roeland St., City Centre, Cape Town). This indie LGBTQ+-friendly bookstore is just downright friendly. They have queer titles, as well as a great selection of South African books, and occasionally host queer wine and poetry nights. Downstairs, there’s a coffee bar and comfy couches.
Victoria Wharf Shopping Centre (Waterway House, 3 Dock Rd., V&A Waterfront, Cape Town). South Africans love shopping malls, and Cape Town is dotted with them. This huge one anchors the tourist-filled waterfront area. It has an array of price points, from Gucci to H&M to national fashion brands, as well as a large food court.
AAFRICAA (Shop 9, Alfred Mall, Dock Rd., V&A Waterfront, Cape Town). This clothing-and-housewares lifestyle emporium sells some of the coolest African contemporary designs you’ll find in town.
The Old Biscuit Mill (375 Albert Rd., Woodstock, Cape Town). This reinvented industrial space in the emerging neighbourhood of Woodstock is a happening home to fashion retailers (vintage, cute and cutting-edge), art galleries, food stalls and even a fashion school. They host a weekly market every Saturday and Sunday, as well as special events throughout the year. Want your souvenir to be chic, your memento artisanal? Here’s the place.
Long Street (between Riebeek and Buitensingel streets). Not only is this a (mostly straight) party zone (the historic buildings with their wrought-iron balconies are reminiscent of New Orleans) Long Street has a wide array of souvenir and craft shops. Wood carvings, beaded animals, textiles—you name it. Nearby Greenmarket Square is filled with dozens of stalls selling souvenirs and crafts; be prepared to be enthusiastically invited to browse, then get down to haggling.
Where to gear up
Addicted Cape Town (Shop 36, Cape Quarter Square, 27 Somerset Rd., De Waterkant, Cape Town). For all your harness, jockstrap and skimpy swimsuit needs, this African outlet of the Barcelona-based gay clothing empire has got you covered. They do stock some non-Addicted merchandise.
Day trips
Western Cape is the centre of the South African wine industry, and so much of it is just an hour or so’s drive outside Cape Town. Companies like Escape to the Cape offer scheduled and custom itineraries, but you can find various off-the-rack day tours out of Cape Town on Viator. It’s also possible to stay in charming towns like Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, which have an array of boutique-y accommodations available, and tour around the area by rental car, Uber or the hop-on-hop-off wine tram. A bit of trivia: An impressive list of South African billionaires own property here; Virgin’s Richard Branson has got a hotel and vineyard.
One of biggest, most popular and loveliest farms to visit is Boschendal Wine Estate (Pniel Road, Groot, Franschhoek), which was founded in 1685 and has been focusing on regenerative farming practices. Their signature Werf restaurant (they also have a deli and picnic facilities) is a culinary treat and boasts a soil-to-fork menu. From the dining room, you can see the garden where many of the veggies and herbs are grown. Wine tastings are essential.
Jordan Wine Estate (Stellenbosch Kloof Rd., Vlottenberg, Stellenbosch) has a history going back to 1982, if measured by the time the current owners have been running it, or 300 years if you are measuring by the time the property has been producing wine. Regardless, the panoramic views from around the estate’s hilly valley are spectacular; at its highest point you can see Cape Town and Table Mountain off in the distance. Their “wine safari” offers tastings in various scenic spots around the property. For butcher types, there are mountain bike trails all over the rolling estate, accessible for the cost of a day permit.
The writer was a guest of South Africa Tourism; the hosts of the trip did not direct or review coverage. The views expressed are the writer’s own.
