Of the United Kingdom’s four countries—England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland— Wales gets the least international attention. But that’s mostly because of the tangled politics and unique history of Great Britain, and what types of stories make the news. It is certainly not because Wales lacks anything for which a visitor could be hankering. Fairy tale castles, outdoor adventures, adorable villages, wild coastal cliffs and beaches, rolling green mountains and a lively, visible and very integrated LGBTQ+ culture: Wales, which goes by Cymru in Welsh, delivers on all accounts.
In fact, the hidden-gem status of this nation of about 3.1 million adds to Wales’s appeal. Unlike some picturesque European destinations, visitors are unlikely to be tripping over each other to take the perfect selfie, while at the same time, it’s much easier to meet the locals. Attitudes are laid back; nobody worries much about pretentions so long as everybody is having fun. About half of the Welsh people consider themselves fluent in the Welsh language, which is on all official signage, and its stuttering consonants give the place a beguiling coolness. The village of Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, on the Isle of Anglesey, has the second-longest place name in the world and means “The church of St Mary at the pool of the white hazels near the fierce whirlpool and the church of St Tysilio of the red cave.”
I saw the whirlpool and, indeed, it is pretty fierce.
North Wales and South Wales, separated by the Cambrian Mountains, feel culturally and geographically distinct from each other, though they both have beautiful beaches. The north tends to be more rustic, the south more cosmopolitan. The accents you hear are certainly different, including the accents of visitors. The north interacts more with industrial cities like Liverpool and Manchester, while the south gets more visitors and summertime residents from posh London; it’s a mere two-hour train ride from London to the Welsh capital of Cardiff. In terms of identity and vibe, the journey is much longer—it’s rare to see a Union Jack in Wales, but you’ll see the Welsh dragon flag everywhere. When you see references to “national” this or that, remember it’s usually the Welsh nation—England is another country.
Welsh contributions to pop culture tend toward the offbeat. Part of that is because much of the deeply felt cultural production is in the Welsh language. English speakers probably have never heard of the BBC’s longest-running soap opera, Pobol y Cwm, because it’s in Welsh. Set in a small village, the show has had an estimated nine queer characters in its 50-year run, including a nonbinary character introduced in 2020. The racy Doctor Who spinoff Torchwood, which ran from 2006 to 2011, was not just shot but set mostly in Cardiff (the show features a lot of running around on the waterfront) and featured the horny bisexual Captain Jack Harkness (played gay Scottish-American John Barrowman) as its lead character.
(Another piece of pop culture trivia: Though the show was ridiculously straight, seriously weirdo readers might want to know that the cult paranoid classic The Prisoner was shot in the campy seaside resort of Portmeirion, Minffordd, Penrhyndeudraeth, Gwynedd, Wales.)
Sex bomb/singer Tom Jones, who has been public about overcoming homophobic attitudes he had early in his career; gay icon Dame Shirley Bassey of “I Am What I Am”; actor Michael Sheen, who has played gay characters; and actor Catherine Zeta-Jones, who sadly has not, are probably the most famous Welsh people outside of Wales. Possibly gay and gender nonconforming figures populate various chapters of Welsh history; visitors can experience some of this history firsthand by visiting their museumified homes like Plas Newydd in Llangollen and Plas Newydd House in Llanfairpwllgwyngyll, which we will cover more deeply here.
The British approach to sexual orientation and gender identity was, right into the early 21st century, to publicly persecute deviation but tolerate it or, in some circles, embrace it if queers minded their manners. There’s always been that campy “only gay in the village” who has their place in people’s hearts even if that “only gay” is never quite confident about this status. Legal same-gender marriage came into effect in the U.K. 2014 and the age of consent is equal, though conversion therapy is not yet banned and loud voices in British public life (less so Welsh) obsess over the status of trans people in society.
These days, public attitudes toward LGBTQ+ people, with the exception of the prickliness about policies affecting trans people, are incredibly warm. In Wales especially, the gay scene is well integrated into mainstream life: openly queer people rightly feel welcome in public hotspots, while straight people, particularly young straight women, loooooove gay bars. Pride Cymru (which typically takes place in late June) attracts more than 50,000 attendees, many of them straight allies who love their gays.
Even die-hard big city–focused visitors will want to spend some time in Wales’s charming and compact capital, Cardiff, which has a metro population of about 1.1 million, a castle in its downtown, great hotels, excellent shopping and eating, and a bustling gay scene. Most of Cardiff’s points of interest are a few minutes’ walk from each other, with the exception of Cardiff Bay, an eclectic portside mix of history and modern structures about a 30-minute walk from the city centre.
Other corners of Wales are better suited for winding down and catching one’s breath. The beautiful green landscape seems never-ending, the number of cute villages infinite. Though distances in Wales are not far by North American standards, many rural roads are narrow and winding—a “Welsh mile” can take a while to traverse. While some places, like Cardiff and the resort town of Tenby, can be comfortably reached by public transportation, renting a car is a smart option. Driving allows visitors to go at their own pace, stopping at places that seem particularly cute and allowing time for special moments, like when the sun catches the side of a castle just so.
The first part of this insider’s guide will focus on Cardiff, including its gay nightlife. Then we’ll list highlights, particularly queer highlights, across the rest of the country. Here is a taste of LGBTQ+ Wales.
What to see and do in Cardiff
Pride Cymru (June 21 and 22, 2025). The ticketed weekend Pride celebrations, including multiple stages and performance spaces, a community market and food vendors, were, in 2024, held inside Cardiff Castle, a walled-off chunk of downtown that contains various attractions, including a green space perfect for holding events. It’s an atmospheric venue that hopefully will be the venue in 2025. The parade itself, which is all marchers and no floats, winds here and there through the downtown before ending at the castle walls.
Cardiff Castle (Castle St., Cardiff). Founded by the Romans in the 50s AD, renovated by the Normans in the 11th century, repurposed as a Gothic revival mansion by a rich Victorian-era family, then turned over to the city in the 1970s, this medieval castle contains two millennia of history—and some surprisingly camp interiors. There are a lot of castles in Wales, but this one is fascinating inside and out. Just west of the castle wall, separating Bute Park from Castle Street, visitors will see a wall lined with 15 animal sculptures, erected in the late 1880s when the city vetoed a zoo with real animals.
National Museum Cardiff (Cathays Park, Cardiff). With collections of art (particularly impressionism), natural history and geology, this institution also hosts major touring and temporary exhibitions.
Cardiff Bay. This large-scale waterfront development, which wraps around the oval-shaped Roald Dahl Plass, is home to several of Cardiff’s political and cultural institutions. Even if you’re not going to see anything in particular, it’s a great place to wander and wonder. The dramatically modern Wales Millennium Centre, dedicated to the performing arts, opened its doors in 2004; you can catch stand-up comedy, opera or anything in between here. The equally modern Senedd building, which opened in 2006, is where the Welsh national assembly meets. There’s also the Mermaid Quay shopping centre and an aqua park. Writer Roald Dahl was baptized in the rustic-looking Norwegian Church, which is now an arts centre.
Where to stay in Cardiff
The Parkgate Hotel (Westgate St., Cardiff). Nothing is very far from anything in Cardiff, which is Europe’s smallest capital. But this LGBTQ+-friendly five-star luxury hotel, in a gorgeously renovated late 19th-century post office, has an ideal location close to transportation, the gay scene and shopping. No two rooms are alike; each has its own modern take on Victorian style. Swank and friendly is an excellent combination. Fitness centre and lovely breakfast buffet.
Radisson Blu Hotel (Meridian Gate, Bute Terrace, Cardiff). You want a view? The Cardiff offering of this reliably LGBTQ+-friendly chain has floor-to-ceiling windows in one of the city’s tallest buildings.
Hotel Indigo (Dominions Arcade, Queen St., Cardiff). This LGBTQ+-friendly property leans into the “made in Wales” aesthetic with a décor that’s homey crossed with chic. Fitness centre.
Clayton Hotel (St. Mary Street, Cardiff). Part of a small LGBTQ+-friendly European chain, the Clayton has a central downtown location, nice décor and a restaurant with nice views.
Ty Rosa Rooms (118 Clive St., Cardiff). With its rainbow logo and wins from the Pink Choice and TripAdvisor LGBTQ+ awards, this five-room boutique guesthouse clearly demonstrates its capacity to please LGBTQ+ travellers. Each room has a different configuration and price point.
Where to eat in Cardiff
Cardiff Market (entrances on Trinity, across from near St. John’s Church, and St. Mary). Also called the Central Market, there’s been something for sale here since the 1700s. Although you’ll find clothes, flowers, beauty products, vintage albums and even poppers, it’s best appreciated now for its many food stalls.
The Classroom (CAVC City Centre Campus, Dumballs Road, Cardiff). Modern European methods with a focus on local Welsh ingredients. With its comfy chairs and floor-to-ceiling windows, the dining room has a real wow factor to it. The staff are students from Cardiff and Vale College, except in the summer, when trained professional chefs step in.
Pasture (8-10 High St., Cardiff). This mini-chain steakhouse, founded in 2018 in Bristol (the English city right across the River Severn from Cardiff), specializes in fire-cooked meats. They’ll also do fire-roasted carrots, and even a veggie moussaka, if that’s more your thing. Right next door to the main Cardiff outlet, their sibling restaurant, Parallel (11 High St., Cardiff), is also all fired-up but does a tasting menu of small plates.
Daffodil (33 Windsor Pl., Cardiff). The seasonal menu draws from local ingredients. It’s a good place to try some Welsh rarebit, which has nothing to do with rabbits and everything to do with cheese, ale and mustard being turned into a sauce that can be spread on bread or other dishes. You’ll find lamb on lots of Welsh menus, and the lamb here comes highly recommended.
Purple Poppadom (Upper floor, 185a Cowbridge Rd. E., Cardiff). Considered one of the best restaurants in Wales, chef Anand George’s “Nouvelle Indian” cuisine has attracted a devout following. Some dishes are more traditional, while others are more playful, like mushrooms presented three ways (crunchy cake, stir-fry and soup). The room is casual, the service easygoing.
The Cardiff Townhouse, Coppa Club (18 The Hayes, St Davids Centre, Cardiff). The Welsh iteration of this national gastropub brand, in a former department store as of May 2024, gets the balance between elegant and casual just about right. Good for everything from brunch through to late-evening cocktails.
Mermaid Quay (Mermaid Quay, Cardiff). The amalgam of waterfront structures provides a home for many restaurants and takeout places. Grab a drink or ice cream cone here for your stroll along Cardiff Bay.
Where to party in Cardiff
Cardiff’s main gay street used to be Charles Street but has gradually moved one block away, to Churchill Way. That’s very fine-grain detail—it’s all in the recently redeveloped Canal Quarter. Let’s just say you’ll never be more than a few minutes’ walk between venues, and if you stop at a straight place along the way, you’ll be just fine.
Like in many U.K. gaybourhoods, the scene is quite mixed—assorted straights will be singing along with the drag queens and pop-dance hits as loudly as any of the gay men.
Mary’s (89 St. Mary Street, Cardiff). This fun, brashly decorated cabaret bar has quickly become the grand central station of Cardiff gay life—hang out here long enough and you’ll see everybody come by, and they’ll probably start talking to you too. There’s a show—drag, tribute acts, karaoke—most nights. Not to be confused with Proud Mary Pub, which is almost right across the street.
The Kings (10 Churchill Way, Cardiff). The karaoke, drag and excellent drink deals keep the partiers coming back to this venue, which is usually jam packed on weekends. The crowd is relatively young and there are old-school arcade games in the front room.
Pulse (3 Churchill Way, Cardiff). We like ’em versatile, and Pulse goes from a dining-oriented pub on its main floor to a dance club in its basement without so much as breaking a sweat. Techno, electronic and pop-dance until 4 a.m. on weekends. Students love the drink specials.
The Golden Cross (283 Hayes Bridge Rd., Cardiff). The oldest gay venue in Cardiff, formerly a brothel, is a classic British public house. If the drag queens and quiz masters and karaoke performers take a break, you should occupy yourself by taking a look at the ceramic tiles on the bar that make it one of the most beautiful pubs you’re likely to come across.
Eclipse (39 Charles St., Cardiff). Taking over the address that was the home of the Eagle Cardiff (rest in peace) is a full-acronym bar with an emphasis on drag.
The Dock Feeder (18 Churchill Way, Cardiff). Cardiff’s newest LGBTQ+ venue is also its chicest. Both the downstairs and upstairs lounges ooze sophistication—oh, that antique-bulb lighting! The terraces are much bigger than you’d imagine from the outside. You might start a date here and not leave till closing.
Where to shop in Cardiff
The Queer Emporium (2 Royal Arcade, Cardiff). This huggable LGBTQ+ community space, which started in 2021 as a pop-up, hosts events (comedy, speed dating, you name it) as well as 18 merchants selling everything from books to jewellery to cake and tea. Its followers are devout and tend to be young, fashionable and politically engaged.
The Victoria Arcades. Cardiff’s city centre has seven (eight if you count the food-oriented Cardiff Market) Victorian-era shopping arcades, the oldest of which, the Royal Arcade, dates back to 1858. The fancy shopping malls of their time, they are elegant corridors connecting to commercial streets (and sometimes to each other). These days, their tenants are mostly independent boutiques, eateries and food shops, many of them luxurious, chic and/or trendy. The aforementioned Queer Emporium is streetfront in the Royal Arcade, but you’ll find queer-run businesses scattered throughout the maze of them.
Cardiff Market (entrances on Trinity, across from near St. John’s Church, and St. Mary). Also called the Central Market, there’s been something for sale here since the 1700s. Although it might be a nosh that beckons you here, you’ll also find clothes, flowers, beauty products, vintage albums and even poppers (Stall 88–92, The Rolling Box).
Ideal stops for a Welsh road trip
Although Cardiff is a fun town and a cultural capital, most overseas visitors to Wales aren’t coming for big-city fun. They’re coming for the landscape, the beaches and the cute towns and villages, and to perhaps overhear Welsh being spoken. Here are three stops on a coastal drive that will take you from the south to the north, skirting the mountain ranges in the centre of the country.
Tenby, population 5,000
Get out your camera. The pastel-coloured buildings of this harbour town, squeezed between four sandy beaches, give good cheer, even on cloudy days. Castle Beach is particularly appealing, guarded over by Tenby Castle and the rocky cliffs and ancient fort of St. Catherines Island, which is reachable on foot when the tide is out. For more human delights, visit the Old Market Hall for shopping and snacks.
QUEER NEAR: Lawrenny, Pembrokeshire, about a half-hour drive from Tenby, hosts the Out & Wild Festival (June 13 to 16, 2025), the U.K.’s largest festival for lesbian, bi, trans and queer women and those who are nonbinary. The three-day lineup has music, comedy, wellness and outdoor options, and the accommodations include camping and dorms.
WORTH A STOP: Harbwr Tenby Harbour Brewery (Sergeants Ln., Tenby). While there are several tempting watering holes along historic Sergeants Lane, this one gets its suds from a local microbrewery.
WHERE TO STAY: St. Brides Spa Hotel (St. Brides Hill, Saundersfoot). Just outside Tenby, this waterfront resort has romantic views of Saundersfoot harbour and beach. The rooms are stylish and unique with the big bathtubs you’d expect at a spa hotel. The restaurant, with its three walls of windows overlooking the sea, feels like a cruise ship dining room.
St. Davids, population 1,850
If one defines a city as a place with a cathedral, then St. Davids is the U.K.’s smallest city. The oversized cathedral in question is not, as a visitor would expect, crowning a hilltop but tucked in a hollow where, the story goes, Viking invaders would not see it. Aside from the cathedral’s uniqueness, the town has cool galleries, LGBTQ+-friendly pubs and a weekend craft market, as well as easy access to several local beaches.
WORTH A STOP: Each day The Really Wild Emporium (24 High St., St. Davids) serves six or so small-plate dishes based on wild ingredients—don’t be a foreigner to foraging. The upstairs shop sells natural cleaning and skincare products.
WHERE TO STAY: Twr-y-Felin Hotel (Ffordd Caerfai, St Davids). This art-filled hotel has landed itself on several “where to stay in the U.K.” lists. It has two local sibling hotels, one inside a 12th-century castle.
Conwy, population 115,000
With easy access to the island of Anglesey (where you can catch a ferry to Dublin or visit the much-visited mouthful of a town, Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch), Conwy is a pretty harbour town lorded over by the imposing ruins of an 13th-century castle. You can walk on the remnants of the medieval town walls and wander through a haunted graveyard.
QUEER NEAR: The Gay Outdoor Club, North Wales Group hosts walking, hiking, cycling, camping and youth-hostel excursions for its members.
WORTH A STOP: The Castle Hotel (High St., Conwy) serves Welsh classics (seafood, pork, venison) that are both refined and hearty.
WHERE TO STAY: The Erskine Arms/Y Capel Guesthouse (Rose Hill St., Conwy; Church St., Conwy). Whether you stay in a spacious room above the pub or the repurposed 19th-century chapel, you’ll have creature comforts and atmosphere to spare.
Editor’s note: The cost of the writer’s trip to Wales was covered by VisitWales. The sponsors of the trip did not direct or review coverage. The views expressed are the writer’s own.
