Swingers clubs and sex clubs for straight adults are dotted here and there around the world, while saunas and sex clubs aimed at gay and bi men are even more pervasive, especially in large cities in Europe and North America.
But it’s rare to find a sex-positive sauna that welcomes all people—trans, gay, bi, lesbian and open-minded straights, including swingers. And rarer still to find one that’s not owned and operated by men.
In the Portuguese capital of Lisbon, a city of almost 2.9-million people, Kiki Pais de Sousa has defied expectations. In 2011, when she was 45 years old, the trans woman opened SaunApolo 56 (R. Luciano Cordeiro 56 A, Lisbon), the only mixed LGBTQ+ sauna in Portugal.
Because of the client mix, patrons are expected to be relaxed and non-judgmental. Everyone must respect the house rules against discrimination of any kind. Though people of all sexual orientations and gender identities are welcome, Pais de Sousa describes the majority of their patrons as bisexual. But she’s less interested in the preferences of her clients than in providing all the services one would expect in a sex-positive sauna or bathhouse: Turkish bath, mini pool, Jacuzzi, private cabins, massage rooms, glory holes, a dark room with a sling, an adult cinema and a bar. The changing room is unisex, and, in an interesting twist for those who are used to gay bathhouse culture, the establishment is available for event rentals, including bachelor and bachelorette parties. Though any attire is acceptable, they provide towels and disposable flip-flops—as well as masks for those who appreciate a bit of anonymity.
Pink Ticket Travel caught up with Pais de Sousa to talk about her vision for an inclusive sexual playground.
How did you come up with the idea of opening such an inclusive sauna?
I have always fought against discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity—I have been a victim of this type of discrimination. It didn’t make sense to open an establishment that promoted such segregation.
How would you describe the SaunApolo 56 concept, especially because it is so different from other gay saunas?
It’s a liberal LGBTQ+ straight-friendly sauna/spa, open to anyone over 18 who doesn’t smoke or take drugs. It’s 330 square metres. We provide wristbands in five colours, each representing a different sexual preference, to make it easier to approach clients. Black is straight, white is bisexual, blue is top, yellow is versatile and red is bottom.
I know you’re one of the best-known transgender women in Portugal, but tell us: Who is Kiki?
I’m a trans woman who had sex reassignment surgery in 2015. I’m also an activist for the LGBTQ+ cause and a businesswoman. I’ve had the privilege of having a wonderful family. My mother, Lucília, was a light in my life who recently passed away. At the end of her life, I cared for her like she was the daughter I didn’t have. My father, Alberto, was a man ahead of his time who never held me back. I also have an incredible aunt and grandmother.
Despite your effort to be inclusive, do men still make up a majority of your patrons?
Yes, our main audience is men, followed by liberal couples of different sexual orientations and gender identities.
Do you get more Portuguese people or more international visitors?
At the moment, it’s 50 percent Portuguese and 50 percent foreign. When we talk about foreigners, I’m including clients from Portuguese-speaking countries as well as people from the United States, England, France, Spain and Germany. It’s quite diverse.
How do you see your role as a transgender woman and owner of a sauna, particularly when the industry is so dominated by men?
It’s a great responsibility to be a pioneer in this industry, because it gives me the opportunity to break the sexism that still exists, even in the LGBTQ+ community.
Would you describe Portugal as a friendly place for the LGBTQ+ community?
We have progressive laws compared to other countries in the world, but we have to be vigilant about the advances of the far right in Portugal. But in any case, Portugal has made significant advances in recent years in relation to the rights of the LGBTQ+ community, including transgender people. For example, anti-discrimination legislation, legal gender recognition, health and social protection, education and awareness, family rights, and visibility and representation.
What is it like to be a transgender woman in Portugal today?
It’s not easy because there is still a structured prejudice in society. Progress is continuous, and every battle won is a victory for the LGBTQ+ community.
You’re also a member of an association linked to LGBTQ+ tourism in Portugal. How does that work?
Since 2023, I’ve been vice president of Variações, an LGBTQ+ business association that’s like a chamber of commerce connected to tourism. The association’s aim is to fight for and defend the rights of entrepreneurs who do business in the LGBTQ+ segment. We are currently organizing EuroPride Lisboa 2025 (exact dates to be announced). Today, we effectively have more local hotels and accommodations, as well as restaurants, bars, nightclubs and saunas.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity. It was conducted in Portuguese and translated into English by the writer.
