Seeing “gay Par-ee” is great and all, but it all zips by so fast. One day you’re up in the Eiffel Tower, the next you’re running into several people you were locking lips with in Le Marais. That’s when it’s time to get naughty in Nice.
Though Nice, which has a metro population of nearly a million, has a bougie and exotic reputation, it’s far more messy and down-to-earth than first-time visitors would expect. Sure, you’ll find impossibly tanned trust fund hunks in linen shirts and barely there swim shorts. But the rambunctious queer subcultures in this southern seaside city are just as robust, and the locals are kinder than Parisians. That’s not saying much, but still. Between the cyan and cobalt waters of the Mediterranean and the chaotic narrow streets of the Old City, you’ll find true revelry. Nice has always maintained a libertine feel, and its inhabitants are accustomed to harbouring debauchery in their midst. It’s both a resort city and a real city.
Plus, it’s surprisingly affordable despite being the fifth-biggest city in France—if you know where to look.
While many people go to Nice for its glittering storefronts and glamorous seaside cabanas, there’s another, more easygoing city behind the façade. This supremely walkable city is packed with traditional stores and laid-back locals who will enhance your visit if you engage with their language and culture. Speaking of which, Nice is a perfect place to take a guided food tour—the cuisine is full of surprises. Whether you’re sampling a socca—a crunchy chickpea pancake coated in olive oil and salt—or devouring a famous salade niçoise, you’ll be glad that you ventured away from the glitzy hotel restaurant.
There is also a deep well of art and history to be found behind that glitz. Artists Marc Chagall, Henri Matisse, Niki de Saint Phalle, Andy Warhol buddy Arman and Yves Klein, known for making works in a particular shade of blue that bears his name, all spent time here. Opera and theatre lovers are also in luck: The Ópera de Nice is world class, and architecturally marvellous.
The architectural tour doesn’t stop there. As Nice once belonged to Italy, it boasts a cornucopia of Italian-style buildings, whose marigold, pumpkin and mahogany colours conjure warmth and confidence. The surreal 2D painted-on windows, on the other hand, conjure reminders of the city’s former tax on windows. Not everything has a sexy story behind it.
The famed Promenade des Anglais, with its eclectic range of sculptures and unobstructed view of the Mediterranean, is the first place you ought to trot. From there, stroll to the Quartier du Port and its lagoon of docked yachts bobbing in the breeze. However, once you enter the Old Town, or Vieux Nice, you’ll never want to visit anywhere else. Teeming with everything from Michelin-starred restaurants and luxury boutiques to family-run small businesses and resplendent flower stalls, Vieux Nice is more of an experience than a neighbourhood. In some parts of its narrow alleys, the restaurant patios are so close to the pedestrian zone that you could reach down and sample a stranger’s meals yourself.
We’re still skipping around Nice’s most important quality: It’s queer as fuck. Being a major tourist destination full of down-to-earth locals, the city has opened its doors to everyone under the sun, including sexual minorities. The Centre LGBTQIA+ Côte d’Azur (Rue Cathy-Richeux, Nice) here serves the entire region and hosts major queer events throughout the whole year, including an enormous Pink Parade for Pride each June. And there are just as many libertine events during the off-season. For instance, the Lou Queernaval, held every February, originally began life as France’s first queer Carnaval and is still going strong. Meanwhile, queer film festivals such as In&Out in spring and Zefestival in autumn continue to fuel the city’s artistic tradition. That’s not to mention the city’s embarrassment of excellent queer nightclubs.
Nice is also a terrific homebase for discovering the Cote D’Azur region. Once you finish walking and partying, you can hop on a day tour or rent a car and visit the Cote’s other treasures. Antibes, Èze, and Saint-Paul de Vence are all worth a visit, while Cannes is only worthwhile during the Film Festival. Monaco, which can be reached on a local train, is only fun if you gamble.
There’s a reason that Nice is considered one of the “crown jewels” of the Cote D’Azur, and you’ll ultimately want to return as soon as possible. Here is the best of LGBTQ+ Nice.
What to see and do
Pink Parade and Pink Party (late June). Local activist group AGLAÉ has been organizing this annual Pride celebration since 2004. The parade is usually followed by a big ticketed party at a fabulous venue.
Lou Queernaval (February-March, depending on the year; 2025 TBA). Launched in 2015, this Mardi Gras–style street parade and party features more than 150 volunteer carnival workers dressed in the most amazing costumes.
In&Out (April 2025 TBA) and Zefestival (usually November-December, 2025 TBA). Look out, Cannes! These two queer film festivals, each put on by a different community arts organization, usually feature films you won’t be able to see anywhere else.
Promenade des Anglais. Named for the 18th-century English aristocrats who came here for the health benefits of the Mediterranean climate, this seven-kilometre stretch of waterfront is Nice’s most famous patch of real estate. Not only a lovely stroll, it’s also something of a central square for the city—lots of events happen here. It’s great for people watching. The eastern end of the shoreline, Castel Plage, is a gay-friendly beach club with paid access. Coco Beach, which is on Avenue Jean Lorrain, just east of the Quartier du Port, has a reputation as a gay beach where clothing is not always required. (We’ll mention another gay nudist beach later in this guide.)
Musée Matisse (164 Av. des Arènes de Cimiez, Nice). Though Matisse’s most famous work, The Dance, is trapped in Russia, the Musée Matisse in Nice more than makes up for it. Here, you can learn about the famous Fauvist’s life while admiring his loveliest creations.
Colline du Château. This former site of a magnificent castle, located on a hilltop just east of the Old City, is now a popular tourist trap with panoramic views. It’s 213 steps to the top, but there’s an elevator as well, for the hiking-averse.
Place Garibaldi (Across Avenue Saint-Sébastien from the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art). This central plaza provides access to both the Old Town and Port Lympia. It’s also a great place to admire Nice’s Italian-style façades.
Ópera de Nice (4-6 Rue Saint-François de Paule, Nice). Nestled in the Old Town, the ornate Italian-style landmark hosts regular opera, ballet and other performances throughout the year.
Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Place Yves Klein, Nice). It’s hard to avoid the eye-popping blue of the work of Yves Klein when you’re in Nice—and the area around MAMAC is named after him. But the museum displays colours other than blue, and its permanent and special exhibitions often feature queer artists.
Where to stay
Boscolo Nice Hotel & Spa (12 Bd Victor Hugo, Nice). Behind the Belle Epoque–style façade, you’ll find an army of amenities and an abundance of contemporary art. The bright rooms, drenched in cream and ivory, lavish you with luxury.
H33 Hotel (33 Rue Pastorelli, Nice). Despite being a budget hotel, H33 is well regarded for its bright, bold décor and conveniently central location.
Le Negresco (37 Prom. des Anglais, Nice). This historic art-filled hotel is legendary for both its florid décor and its location along the Promenade des Anglais. Legendary ritz.
Hotel Beau Rivage (24 Rue Saint-François de Paule, Nice). This beau boutique is brimming with contemporary, Niçois-chic décor, which pairs perfectly with the nearby private beach.
Le Panoramic Boutique Hotel (107 Bd. Bischoffsheim, Rte. Grande Corniche, Nice). Perched on a terrace and immersed in greenery, Le Panoramic Boutique overlooks all of Nice: Both its breakfast rooms and guest rooms boast sweeping views.
Where to eat
La Civette du Cours (1 Cr. Saleya, Nice). This modest women-owned lunch and cocktail spot is a popular assembly point for queers kicking off the night.
Davisto Restaurant Italien (18 Rue Saint-Philippe, Nice). It would be a shame not to scarf down some Italian while you’re in Nice, and Davisto’s authentic homemade pastas and sauces are lip-smacking good.
La Tour Halévy (11 Rue Halévy, Nice). This bustling corner café, an LGBTQ+ haunt, is known for its Creole and Mediterranean plates and homemade pizzas, as well as its friendly staff. They also host drag shows, drag bingo and racy fashion shows.
Le Petit Lascaris (5 Rue Droite, 06300 Nice, France). If you don’t have time for a food tour, you should at least sample some serious South France cuisine at this sophisticated trattoria-style joint. There’s often entertainment.
L’Escalinada (22 Rue Pairolière, Nice). L’Escalinada specializes in Niçoise cuisine, so if you’re itching for a salade niçoise, onion pizza or Provençal daube garnie stew, then this is the place for it.
Hacienda Bar y Cocina (11 bis Rue Delille, Nice). This women-run bistro is perfect for an evening drink or bite. Try the calamari.
Where to party
Le Couloir (1 Rue Alberti, 06000 Nice, France). Practically legendary among Nice nancies, Le Couloir has been delivering the gay goods for roughly three decades. You can expect kinship and camaraderie amid a sea of vintage ads.
Cabaret Au Petit Moulin (1 Rue du Commandant Raffalli, Nice). Founded in 2022, this 50-seat cabaret does dinner and a drag show with camp glamour.
Le Swing (10 Rue Defly, Nice). The drag shows at this resto-bar really pack ’em in on weekends. There’s also drag bingo and karaoke.
Ramdam Bar (3 Rue Lascaris, Nice). This multipurpose LGBTQ+ “concept bar” hosts parties, exhibitions and performances. And Drag Race viewing events.
Le Glam (6 Rue Eugène Emanuel, Nice). This dance club and show bar has been around for 27 years, offering—it’s clear in the name—a glamorously good time every weekend.
L’Oméga Club (8 Pass. Emile Négrin, Nice). The tea dances and drag shows here are more lambda than omega, and the diverse queer clientele ensures a safe partying space for all.
Le Klubber (14 Rue Benoît Bunico, Nice). This sensational Old Town hole-in-the-wall is a perfect afterparty destination. It’s the club where no one knows your name, and they will forget it if you tell them. Fewer women than some of the other dance clubs.
Where gay and bi men can have fun
Sauna Les Bains-Douches (7 Rue Gubernatis, Nice). This 100 percent gay and bi, award-winning sauna is blessedly free of douches—the human kind, that is. Three floors of fun, and the occasional foam party.
Club Le 7 (7 Rue Foncet, Nice). The long version of this club’s name is “Sex-Club Gay Cruising Bar Nice,” just so you know exactly what to expect. This three-floor den of debauchery—part sauna, part cruising club—is filled with both antique décor and impossibly beautiful men.
Le Code Nice (4 Rue Jean-Pierre Papon, Nice). Whatever code they’re referring to, it’s not a dress code—you can dress or undress however you like at this men-only sex club that’s been around since 2011.
Plage d’Èze-sur-Mer. About a 30-minute drive or train ride east, in the town of Èze, this secluded beach is a haven for gay nudists.
Where to shop
Librairie Vigna (3 Rue Delille, Nice). This lesbian-owned bookstore is packed with queer classics, modern novellas, feminist texts and archival magazines, and the friendly staff is more than happy to help you find a perfect gift to yourself.
Rendez-Vous Underwear (6 Rue Francis Gallo, Nice). This Old Town establishment will satisfy even the most insatiable gay shoppers with its collection of men’s underwear, swimsuits and evening wear.
Vog (2 Rue Mascoinat, Nice). This gay-friendly ready-to-wear store contains a wealth of casually classy outfits that scream “Mediterranean.” More outerwear than underwear.
Rouge Baisers (14 Rue Gioffredo, Nice). Just a short jaunt from Old Town, this boutique is known for its accessories, lingerie, erotic toys and every other naughty thing that you can imagine. It caters to both straight and queer customers.
Avenue Jean Médecin (between Place Masséna and Gare Thiers). Many of the big international and national fashion and lifestyle brands are located on and around this grand boulevard. Galeries Lafayette Nice Masséna, the smaller sibling of the famous Paris department store, is along this stroll.
Marché aux Fleurs Cours Saleya (Cr Saleya, Nice). Head to this long-running flower-and-produce market for some photo ops and beautiful smells.
