I am a little groggy from my flight from Toronto as I wander down Central Avenue, the main commercial drag of St. Petersburg, Florida. I’ve never been to the Tampa Bay area before, and my knowledge of Florida as a whole has been shaped less by IRL experiences and more by headlines and stereotypes: oranges, seniors, Disney World, conservative politics, alligators, The Golden Girls.
So I am surprised—shocked, even—when the first people I pass on Central Avenue on a humid Wednesday morning are not elderly straight snowbirds in Tilley hats, but a 30-something gay male couple holding hands. One of them is wearing rainbow jewellery. Then there’s another couple (they’re less overt, but they seemed gay to me), this one in their 40s walking a dog. Then I spot a cool coffee shop, rainbow flags affixed to their front window, full of yoga-fit people in their 20s and 30s. Then another cool coffee shop with a rainbow flag in the window, then a jewellery and crystal shop with a shelf selling pottery made by a gay couple, as well as homoerotic art and leather harnesses. I stumble upon a bookstore with a “We say gay” poster in the window and a large selection of LGBTQ2S+ titles.
Am I dreaming? The sunshine says Florida. The vibe is young, free spirited and queer friendly. In my short visit to St. Pete, I counted six gay bars plus several more with Pride flags hanging out front (see our listings below). It was so easy-going, it was hard to imagine anyone rushing by or being bitchy. The day I wore a brightly coloured shirt, four strangers complimented me on it. Within 20 minutes of sitting at the bar of a tiny gay dive bar, I met a hairdresser, a non-profit fundraiser who the hairdresser insisted should have a haircut—and didn’t I agree?—a local leatherman and a gay couple from Orlando.
St. Pete, with a population of about 260,000, is not a dense city, but its commercial areas are pleasantly walkable. The downtown’s only got a handful of buildings over six storeys tall, and its tree-lined residential streets are populated by single-family homes at all sorts of price points. For three dozen blocks, from St. Pete’s downtown waterfront on Tampa Bay toward its Gulf of Mexico beaches, chain stores and restaurants are a rare sight. St. Pete wears its artsy-indie heart proudly on its sleeve.
The development around St. Pete Beach, which is reachable from downtown by an express bus affectionately dubbed SunRunner, is more American-style strip-mall. Some of the small resort hotels have a retro vibe. The white sand beaches are perfect for wiling away an afternoon swimming, tanning or otherwise frolicking on the shoreline. Florida is surrounded by beachy barrier islands, and each beach here has its own following; while St. Pete is the easiest to get to, quiet Pass-a-Grille is home to a sizable lesbian community. Gay men, however, tend to head to Sunset Beach, at the southern tip of Treasure Island, to hang out in the sun.
When Floridians boast that their state is a paradise, queer people who love to chillax should imagine something like St. Pete. More than any other U.S. state, Florida is the most whimsical—in more than one sense of the word. The Sunshine State has a sense of fun and adventure—it’s a place many people dream of vacationing in, moving to or retiring to.
But Florida is also whimsical in the sense that visitors never know what to expect next, depending on where they are. There’s hurricane season, of course, which can whip the peninsula quite harshly. The 2024 hurricanes made St. Pete take a breath, but it recovered quickly and was a nice place to visit again within weeks of the mess.
But Florida politics are equally volatile. The current governor, Republican Ron DeSantis, has made the LGBTQ2S+ community his bête noire. In 2022, he pushed forward a “don’t say gay” law, which prohibited instruction on sexual orientation or gender identity in schools. That law was rolled back after activists won a court-ordered settlement in 2024. A March 2023 DeSantis law that would have banned drag performances that could be seen by children was, a few months later, in November 2023, blocked by the U.S. Supreme Court.
These state-level stabs at the LGBTQ2S+ community seem entirely removed from how many of Florida’s key tourism destinations treat LGBTQ2S+ visitors, and how visitors experience these destinations. Considering the drag queens that feature in some of St. Pete’s best street art—the annual Shine Mural Festival is a great source of civic pride—it’s hard to imagine possible restrictions on drag being enforced here. It makes the branding tough. The bad news, like DeSantis’s bullying and hurricanes, is well reported, while victories, like those against “Don’t say gay” and the drag ban, and the speedy cleanup from the fall 2024 hurricanes, don’t get nearly as much coverage.
One local told me that while the east coast of Florida attracts expats from the American northeast, the west coast attracts Midwesterners, whose folksy friendliness has become part of the culture. Though St. Pete may sometimes be overshadowed by other LGBTQ2S+-friendly Florida destinations, like Miami/Fort Lauderdale, Key West and Orlando (never underestimate the Disney gays), St. Pete’s mix of urban experiences, artsiness, beaches, easygoing attitude and pleasing pricepoints make it feel like a hidden gem that deserves much more attention.
Of course, queer-friendly is not our only requirement for a sunny destination. We need some fun activities—and not just super-long happy hours. So here are Pink Ticket Travel’s picks for finding the best of LGBTQ2S+ St. Petersburg.
What to see and do
St. Pete Pride (June 27 to 29, 2025). Florida’s largest LGBTQ2S+ celebration, attracting an estimated half a million people, St. Pete Pride knows how to throw an inclusive ,community-led celebration. The current incarnation of the event started in 2003, after legislators effectively shut down the original parade, demonstrating how locals are able to make lemonade out of lemons.
Beaches. The beautiful white sand beaches of the Gulf of Mexico coast are a key reason to visit St. Pete; the region is also great for boating, sailing and other watersports. Some homes have docks in their backyard. There are many resorts and hotels, large and small, chain and indie, in the beach neighbourhoods. The cultural stuff, though, is on the Tampa Bay side. It’s about a 20-minute drive between the two waterfronts, but if you’d rather not rent a car, the express SunRunner bus can get you from downtown to the beach in about 35 minutes. The most accessible and busiest is St. Pete Beach. Pass-a-Grille is less developed, more residential and is known for its lesbian community. Sunset Beach, at the southern end of Treasure Island, is a gay hangout.
The Dalí Museum (1 Dali Blvd., St. Petersburg). The city’s most famous and beloved cultural institution, which opened in 1981, has more than 2,400 works spanning the entire career of tSpanish surrealist Salvador Dalí, who was not queer but definitely camp. Housed since 2011 in a quirky concrete-and-glass space on the waterfront, it’s a comprehensive journey inside the brain of the mustachioed eccentric. The answer to the question that everyone asks: It’s here because a rich American straight couple collected a huge number of Dalí’s works, had connections to St. Pete and in the 1970s, the city lobbied them to be home to their collection.
The St. Pete Pier (600 2nd Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg). This well-designed 26-acre linear park, which points out into Tampa Bay, is the city’s favourite playground. Children’s playgrounds, yes, but it’s also fun for walkers, joggers and people who want to eat ice cream and sit on the beach. There are five bars/restaurants on the pier, and a market for vendors selling locally produced food and gift items.
Central Avenue. Much (though certainly not all) of St. Pete’s best people-watching, shopping and eating is along Central or close to it. The street is broken up into several districts, each with its own character; independent businesses with strong personalities are dominant through all of them. The Central Arts District, between 3rd Street and Dr. MLK Jr. Street, is home to several larger arts centres and galleries including the Chihuly Collection (720 Central Ave., St. Petersburg) of glass art. Next is The Edge District, which boasts great street art and nightlife, including one of the bigger gay bars, Enigma (more on that later). Of the most interest to LGBTQ2S+ visitors, though, is the Grand Central District, which runs between 16th and 31st streets, where the preponderance of queer-run and queer-oriented businesses is higher. The city’s rainbow/trans flag crossing is at Central and 25th Street. The district hosts Mardi Gras (February 18, 2025), Winter Pride (February 16 to 23, 2025), Pride (see details above) and a Halloween street party.
Imagine Museum (1901 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). If you think glass art is pretty but isn’t as thought-provoking or edgy as other art forms, this museum will change your mind. Opened in 2018, the collection of contemporary glass art has grown to 6,000 pieces, up from the 1,500 pieces in the original collection, doubling down on the area’s reputation as “Florida’s Glass Coast.” The curation is accessible and family friendly.
Get Up and Go Kayaking (1 Collany Rd., Tierra Verde). This kayaking operation (part of a five-state chain) knows its stuff, providing clear-bottom kayaks and excellent guides for expeditions into the Shell Key Preserve, a conservation area just south of Pass-a-Grille. Guides can talk about the local wildlife, local ecology and the Tampa Bay area’s history of being narrowly missed by the worst of hurricane damage. Expect cormorants to closely follow you along, taking advantage of your paddles stirring up fish so they can dive for a meal.
FloridaRAMA (2606 Fairfield Ave. S., St. Petersburg). Florida has a reputation for wackiness, and there’s nothing wackier than a motel-themed funhouse designed by 75 artists, who use a variety of media such as video, sound, light, sculpture and painting to delight, tickle and befuddle visitors. Think of a room with a shrimp theme, including a giant shrimp cocktail, and a room of mirrors. Very kid friendly.
Where to stay
Mari Jean Hotel (2349 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). How do you know you’re in a very gay adults-only resort? Each suite in this 54-room hotel is signed by a different hot shirtless hunk, throw pillows that say things like, “If you lick it, it will cum,” and elevator buttons marked Bottom, Versatile and Top. The funky décor on the 1920s building, in acid green and black, reminds you that you’re in a playful gay space—and so do the friendly staff. On the ground floor of the complex are three bars: the Wet Spot pool bar, the Cocktail cocktail bar and The Saint speakeasy, all of which serve food. (More about them in “Where to party.”) Hotel guests get towel service and access to the pool. There’s also a small shop selling saucy and sexy clothing and accessories. Which is to say that you could spend a weekend in St. Pete without ever leaving the Mari Jean.
Moxy St. Petersburg Downtown (1234 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). The playfully stylish brand of LGBTQ2S+ ally Marriott is located in the hip Edge District, walking distance from the Grand Central District, so the location is ideal. They’ve got a rooftop pool and bar with views that are worth dropping by for a cocktail.
The Vinoy Resort & Golf Club, Autograph Collection (501 5th Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg). This four-star property, part of Marriott’s swank Autograph Collection, was opened in 1925 (celebrating its 100th anniversary this year), a pink Mediterranean-style marvel. Park your yacht in the marina and check in for some downtime at the spa, the pool, the tennis courts or on the golf course. Iconic.
TradeWinds Resort. For something right on the beach, the two sibling LGBTQ2S+-friendly properties, Island Grand at TradeWinds (5500 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach) and Rumfish Beach at TradeWinds (6000 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach), share a beautiful stretch of sand. Each has multiple swimming pools, restaurants and a great beach cabana service. They also share a three-storey water slide.
Gay Paradise Suites St. Pete (4062 1st Ave. S., St. Petersburg). This clothing-optional guest house, operated by a former midwesterner, has private rooms, a pool, hot tub and shared social spaces, making for a comfy and very gay stay. They offer day passes to the pool deck and shared spaces.
Tru by Hilton St. Petersburg Downtown (1650 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). This cheerful and affordable iteration of Hilton has an excellent location on Central.
Where to eat
Black Crow (2157 1st Ave. S., St. Petersburg). For a morning coffee and pastry, local hipsters and queers head to this cool, friendly spot, which is out and proud about its progressive politics.
Pistil House (2533 1st Ave. S., St. Petersburg). Adorable straight couple Carly and Anthony serve coffee in the morning, beer and wine in the afternoon and evening, and sell flowers and light meals all day long at this homey spot in the Grand Central District.
Good Intentions (1900 1st Ave. S., St. Petersburg). Tampa Bay’s first all-vegan restaurant is conveniently located in the gaybourhood. They’ve got imaginative and tasty dishes that might convert a carnivore, served in a big airy room.
Urban Stillhouse (2232 5th Ave. S., Saint Petersburg). This swanky mansion of a restaurant has endearing, impeccable service and a menu inspired by bourbon. In fact, bourbon is an ingredient in many of their recipes, elevating traditional meals of steak, lamb chops and pork chops. Artisanal cocktails, of course. Classy in the best sense of the word.
Bodega (1180 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). This Edge District eatery dedicated to Latin street food is perfectly located for an afternoon pick-me-up, like a Cuban sandwich, roast chicken lunch or mojito, while browsing Central.
3 Daughters Brewing (222 22nd St. S., St. Petersburg). There are more than 35 independent breweries in St. Pete and neighbouring Clearwater—they call it the Gulp Coast. This family-friendly Grand Central District brewery is an essential visit, not just because it’s in the gaybourhood. One of the largest indie breweries, it gives guests so much added value: a tasting room, performance space, food truck, event room, laboratory (for developing new products) and games to play. (There are no TVs.) They produce roughly 40 products, including ciders, sangrias and canned cocktails, as well as beer. You might have to stay in St. Pete for a few weeks to sample all of them.
Trophy Fish (2060 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). So many U.S. restaurants have “their” way of doing things. At this marine-inspired spot, which feels like a boat house or cabana, you head to the counter to order one of the fresh daily catches, customize your seasonings and add a couple of sides like pineapple cabbage slaw or blackened fries. The shrimp are also amazing.
Where to party
The Grand Central District, which runs along Central Avenue and neighbouring blocks between 16th and 31st streets, is St. Pete’s gaybourhood. The city’s rainbow/trans flag crossing is at Central and 25th Street. Though you’ll be hard-pressed to find an unwelcoming bar in this city, all of the self-described gay bars are in Grand Central except for one, which is just a little farther east.
Florida happy hours are a thing. Some start at 1 p.m. and end at 9 p.m. The typical special is two-for-one; you get a token when you pay that can be redeemed for your second drink after you’ve finished your first.
The Salty Nun (2501 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). This lesbian-run brunch, lunch and late-night drinks spot could have been in our “Where to eat” section. But considering the drag shows, live performances, special events and boisterous community-spirit vibe, we’re declaring it a party place. The burgers are pretty good, too.
Cocktail, The Wet Spot (2355 Central Ave., St. Petersburg) and The Saint (49 24th St. N., St. Petersburg). These are the three resto-bars on the ground floor of the Mari Jean Hotel complex, which takes up the better part of a block of the gaybourhood. Each venue has its own vibe, though sometimes larger events sprawl over both Cocktail and the Wet Spot. Cocktail is a classic upscale gay bar, with stools at the bar, a dancefloor, a performance space for drag shows and sidewalk seating. There are regular theme parties, including leather night. The Wet Spot is a poolside bar that’s open all week but is best known for its weekend tea dances, which usually feature a DJ and drag; Sunday afternoon is the most popular session. The Saint is an upscale speakeasy (they encourage patrons to dress up a bit) that draws a mixed crowd for its fancy cocktails and weekly burlesque shows. The Saint entrance is around to the side of the Mari Jean. Guests need a reservation and a password (maybe find it on social media?) to enter.
Enigma (1110 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). The only self-described gay bar that’s not in Grand Central—it’s a whole 20-minute walk or a short drive away. Maybe that’s the enigma. Otherwise, this is a fun cocktails-drag-and-dancing gay bar, with an excellent happy hour, pool tables and karaoke on Mondays.
The Garage On Central (2729 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). Brightly lit, easy-peasy, pool tables, darts and karaoke. This come-one-call-all LGBTQ2S+ bar is a great place to chat up locals.
Lucky Star Lounge (Around to the side entrance, 2760 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). To describe this hidden spot as a dive bar is to do a disservice to its friendly bartenders and regulars, as well as the fun tchotchkes and sassy signage all over the place. There’s a small front terrace and a larger one in the back.
Where to shop
The City of St. Petersburg has done an astonishing job of keeping its downtown (from the St. Pete Pier all the way to 34th Street) virtually free of chain retailers and eateries. So St. Pete shopping is a unique experience—you can tell that many of the boutiques are passion projects. Here are a few key stops with special LGBTQ2S+ interest.
Tombolo Books (2153 1st Ave. S., St. Petersburg). This small but mighty queer-championing indie bookstore has an excellent selection of fiction and non-fiction. They also host literary events, many of them queer-focused.
Book + Bottle (17 6th St. N., St. Petersburg). We’re listing two bookstores? Well. 1) This is St. Pete. 2) This one’s also LGBTQ2S+ friendly. 3) This one also sells wine to drink there, in the beautiful minimalist space, or by the bottle to take home.
ARTpool Gallery (2030 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). Even if you’re not in the mood to buy anything, browsing this supersized collection of vintage and handmade clothing, vinyl records and other assorted whimsical items, like rainbow socks, is a dizzying experience. Wait, maybe you do want to buy something?
Atlas Body & Home (919 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). A gay couple runs this men’s clothing shop, which is full of well curated and comfortable (this is Florida, after all) fashion.
ZaZoo’d (633 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). From the men behind the Mari Jean hotel empire, this is the place to find throw pillows emblazoned with sassy sayings, martini glasses and naughty gift items.
Graphi-ko Gallery, Crystals & Jewelry (669 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). Dubbing itself a “metaphysical supply store,” amid all the crystals, this little boutique sells pottery and other crafts from local artisans, including local queers.
Florida CraftArt (501 Central Ave., St. Petersburg). This non-profit organization sells the work of Florida artists and artisans, including LGBTQ2S+ creators.
The St. Pete Pier (600 2nd Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg). Near the entrance to this mammoth park area is a cluster of kiosks with vendors selling crafts and other locally produced items that make for excellent gifts.
Tyrone Square (6901 22nd Ave. N., St. Petersburg). If you’re simply jonesing for a mall, this large one has international and national retail brands.
The writer was a guest of Visit St. Pete-Clearwater; the hosts of the trip did not direct or review coverage. The views expressed are the writer’s own.
