More relaxed than Mexico City, more sophisticated and more “real” than Puerto Vallarta, Guadalajara’s LGBTQ+ scene hits a very special sweet spot. From hip, electronic-music-driven dance clubs to friendly hole-in-the-wall bars to fabulous drag shows, the city is ready to keep you out all night. And its restaurants will keep you well-fed at any price point.
The gaybourhood is on the edge of the historic centre, close to Parque Revolución, an area that’s been a place to cruise, organize and protest for decades. You’ll see rainbow flags everywhere and even a stand called Tacos Gay that gets busy when the bars are winding down. The gaybourhood is not a very residential area, so the atmosphere is quite different at night than during the day when there is more retail open. The village is spread across a relatively large area and the venues can be scattered here and there—you might have to walk down a block or two to get from one hotspot to another, so take care and stay on streets where there are lots of people.
Most of the city’s mainstream late-night nightlife, and some of the more style-conscious gay places, are further west, in the Americana and Lafayette neighbourhoods where venues are even more spread out. Hotspots are always opening and closing, so ask around. Avenida Chapultepec Sur, roughly between Avenida Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla and C. Miguel Lerdo de Tejada, is the heart of it, and it’s also where you’ll find drunk straight people eating tacos after the clubs close.
Sex clubs and saunas aren’t as big a thing here as in Mexico City—the Tapatío (that’s what you call Guadalajara natives) vibe is more easy-going than edgy. But there’s fun to be had and visitors should find locals easy to meet, though English isn’t as widely spoken here as in PV and Mexico City. Cowboy culture is a real thing in Mexico, so expect to see a few wide-brimmed hats at spots like California’s Bar.
Most visitors to Guadajalara will want to visit Tlaquepaque, a colourful artsy neighbourhood with several stylish LGBTQ+-owned restaurants and boutiques, which can be reached by taxi or public transportation. Tlaquepaque will give you the urge to buy artisan jewelry, handmade candy and a whole new set of plates, bowls and glasses.
The town of Tequila, where several distilleries have tourable facilities, shops and restaurants, is also a popular day trip, though a pretty damn straight one. Tours can be booked at most hotels or from various locations around the city centre.
What to see and do
Ex Convento del Carmen (Av. Juárez 638, Centro). Housed in a 17th-century church, this contemporary art gallery last year hosted a comprehensive and art-filled exhibition on the history of LGBTQ+ rights in Guadalajara and the state of Jalisco. They even had a multi-room recreation of the famed Monica’s nightclub circa the late 1980s. There are hopes that all or part of the exhibition—or something equally queer—will be on display here during the Gay Games.
Museo Cabañas (Cabañas #8, Plaza Tapatía Zona Centro). Ranked up there with Diego Rivera, muralist José Clemente Orozco is probably Guadalajara’s most famous visual artist. His murals are so mysterious, so evocative—conjuring war, oppression, liberation, salvation—they can be downright disturbing. His work on the ceilings and walls of the great entrance hall to this former orphanage are stunning. The ever-changing exhibits scattered through this huge complex are also worth visiting. (Another of Orozco’s haunting murals is on display at Palacio de Gobierno, Ave. Ramon Corona 31, Zona Centro.)
Catedral de Guadalajara and the surrounding squares (Av. Fray Antonio Alcalde 10, Zona Centro). The 16th-century cathedral mashes together baroque, gothic and other styles. But even if you don’t care about architecture, you can pass many pleasant hours strolling, people-watching and café-hopping around this gorgeous pedestrian-friendly area, which forms a cross-shape around the cathedral.
Tlaquepaque (the main drag is Calle Independencia between Av. Niños Héroes and Jardin Hidalgo). This quaint village got absorbed into Guadalajara (it’s about a half-hour drive from the cathedral), but kept its identity as a bohemian place to dine, drink and shop. There’s artisanal everything, from chocolates to liqueur to jewelry to housewares.
The town of Tequila (about an hour’s drive outside Guadalajara). Any beverage that calls itself tequila comes from Jalisco state (with a few recognized zones in a couple of other states) and there is, in fact, a Jalisco town called Tequila where some of the biggest producers are based. It’s a pretty, but also pretty tourist-filled place. José Cuervo and Casa Sauza offer theme-park-like tours; Tequila Herradura has a nice campus in the nearby countryside. Visitors can easily spend a day buying tequila-based cocktails and shots from carts, booths, bars and stores all over town. Imbibers often get to keep the collectible drinking vessel the drink is served in. It can get a little messy here on weekends.
Where to Stay
Hotel Velvet Plaza (Av. Ignacio L. Vallarta 2477, Col. Arcos Vallarta). A nice location near the Minerva statue, this mid-range hotel has a rooftop pool and bright contemporary rooms.
Hotel Demetria (Av. de la Paz 2219, Col Americana, Lafayette). An industrial loft attitude informs the rooms, and there’s a rooftop pool. Hipster central.
Alebrije Hotel Boutique (Libertad 1016, Zona Centro). Located in the gaybourhood, so an easy crawl from a night out, this comfy courtyard-focused gay-run hotel caters to gay men.
Las Sabilas (Calle Venustiano Carranza 314, Centro Barranquitas). This verdant eight-room guest house marketed to LGBTQ+ travellers has various room configurations, all of them atmospheric.
Where to eat
Yunaites (Mercado Centenario, Calle Garibaldi 824, Col. Jesús). Eating local dishes at a counter in a public market might be one of the most Mexican things a visitor can do. But this lunch counter, opened in 2021 by one of Guadalajara’s leading chefs, Fabian Delgado, takes everything up a notch, employing high-quality ingredients and a few culinary twists, while staying true to the traditional dishes of the region.
Casa Luna (Calle Independencia 211, Centro Tlaquepaque). Once a town outside the city, Tlaquepaque is now a charming suburb of Guadalajara jampacked with cool restaurants, funky bars and boutiques. It’s got flair. This lunchtime favourite resto gets its wow factor from artsy tree installations set in an elegant courtyard. Good choice for a special occasion. Try the molcajete—a stone pot of cheese and other morsels—and a cazuela, which in Guadalajara is not a stew, as it is in other parts of Latin America, but a tequila-based cocktail served in a massive drinking vessel.
Tacos Provincia (Av. Rubén Darío 534, Col. Lomas de Guevara). Though Guadalajara has lots of on-trend dining spots, it’s hard to beat a classic taco restaurant with its simple menu of tacos, gringas and sincronizadas. Wash it down with beer.
La Postrería (Libertad 1780, Col. Americana, Americana). All over the Americana neighbourhood, you see cute-as-a-button cafés populated by cute-as-a-button people. This appealing patioed spot stands out because of its amazing desserts and baked goods. They make you want to live on macarons.
Palreal (C. Lope de Vega 113, Col. Arcos Vallarta). The menu is chock full of arty graphic design, and the breakfasts, light meals and cocktails are also artfully prepared. But you really can’t leave without having something from their coffee selection, which is sourced from artisanal Mexican producers.
Hueso (Calle Efraín González Luna 2061, Col. Americana, Obrera). Communal tables in decor that’s white like bone (“hueso” in Spanish), this is one of the city’s buzziest restaurants, with an innovative ever-changing seasonal menu.
Allium (C. Manuel López Cotilla 1752, Col Americana, Lafayette). Try to nab a seat on the patio to best enjoy the creative menu, sourced from artisan producers and the urban garden on their rooftop.
Veneno (Av. de las Américas #1254, Country Club). Located in an upscale multi-level food hall called Pannarama Social, in a modern high-rise in a posh neighbourhood, Veneno does beautiful, sophisticated versions of traditional dishes like tostada de callo, quesadilla de pork belly and chile anchos rellenos.
Peligro Bien Rico. Run by LGBTQ+ community leader Alex Serratos, this is a hip indoor-outdoor resto-bar where you can spend a day trying out the food and cocktail menus. Every month they host a late-afternoon jotero, a drag happening that involves doing lots of shots with the queens.
Where to party
California’s Bar (Av. 8 de Julio 652, Zona Centro). With big screens playing music videos, a few cowboys and lots and lots and lots of handsome guys ready to party and cruise, this long-standing cantina-style bar is one of the city’s most popular gay-male venues.
Envy Club (Av. de la Paz 2315, Col. La Americana). The playground of a hip young crowd who likes to party till the sun comes up. Where you’ll hear some of the more innovative DJs. Weekends only. Though men predominate, it’s a mixed crowd.
Babel Club (C. Morelos 741, Zona Centro). Mixed LGBTQ+ and allies vibe with a room for pop music and another for electronic. Expect drag shows, go-go dancers, sexy theme nights and dancing until you can’t dance anymore.
Open Club (Francisco de Quevedo #117, Col. Arcos Vallarta). A little far from the centre, this mixed-LGBTQ+ club has a big main room that’s often filled with sounds provided by international guest DJs.
SinFin Cantina (C. Emeterio Robles Gil 43, Col. Americana). Stylish cocktail bar with a patio, great cocktails and friendly, handsome servers. A nice place to grab a pre-drink early in the evening. Or go later when there are shows and special events. They also host drag brunches and Drag Race viewing parties.
Maskaras Disco Bar (C. Maestranza 238, Zona Centro). Head upstairs to this cabaret-style show bar; you never know what you’ll find.
Six Colors and Green Light Bar (Calle Enrique González Martínez 177 and 454, Zona Centro). These two side-by-side bars, which share an owner, are classic no-fuss-no-muss venues where you’ll always find a drag show and/or friendly patrons singing along to the music, then spontaneously breaking out dancing. Easy fun.
Where gay and bi men can find fun
Club 183 (C. Mariano Bárcena 183, Zona Centro). Bad boy alert. You enter into what looks like a conventional bar, where you’ll see a stage for strippers and friends sitting at tables having drinks. But much of the square footage of the club is a series of rooms hidden behind curtains, all dedicated to cruising. Go as bare as you dare; clothing check is included in the cover charge. Theme nights include bear night and naked karaoke.
Riilax (Calle Venustiano Carranza 309, Centro Barranquitas). The city’s biggest and probably busiest gay sauna, they have recently renovated with nice new showers.
Renacer Spa Guadalajara (Amado Nervo 106, Col. Ladrón de Guevara). A genuine day spa, they offer massages and an array of spa services. They have a chandelier—it’s classy and in a posh neighbourhood. But no worries, it’s also cruisy.
Where to buy gay stuff
Charchek (Calle Marsella 80, Col. Americana, Lafayette). The brightly-coloured locally-produced underwear and bathing suits are fun and sexy, and the prices are good. But here’s the real appeal of this store: find a design and style you like, and they’ll have it custom-made in your size (including your package size) within a day or so.
Aquiles Underwear (Calz del Federalismo Nte. 407, Centro). Unique locally-designed underwear, bath suits and assorted leisure and party wear. Made in small batches so buy what you like the moment you see it—and be sure nobody will be wearing the same thing the next time you’re on the beach.
Mosko (Calle Marsella 163, Col Americana). This national gay-run mini-chain sells brands like Andrew Christian, Nasty Pig and Cellblock 13, as well as lesser-known lines. Decent harness selection.
Torzo (C. Morelos 1858, Col. Ladrón de Guevara, Lafayette). Their array of sexywear is full of bright, playful and outrageous designs. Most of it is twink oriented. Be assured that their athletic wear is not suitable for actual athletic endeavours.
Read our story about the Guadalajara Gay Games, taking place November 3 to 11, 2023, here.
Editor’s note: The cost of the writer’s trip to Guadalajara was covered by the city of Guadalajara. The sponsors of the trip did not direct or review coverage. The views expressed are the writer’s own.
