Think of a desert city known for its interesting architecture, focus on design and public art, as well as opportunities to bike, hike and horseback ride, and with some amazing food, shopping and gay life. No, not Palm Springs. We’re talking about Scottsdale, Arizona.
Located in the section of the Sonoran Desert known as the Valley of the Sun, this city of around 240,000 is an under-the-radar gem when it comes to LGBTQ2S+ destinations. Yet it has a long history of being a welcoming, gay-friendly resort town, though perhaps more familiar to Western Canadians who love it for the sun and the relaxing atmosphere.
Scottsdale’s popularity rests on two virtues. Firstly its geography. Surrounded by desert and mountains, with the Arizona Canal running through its downtown, it’s a scenic place with opportunities for hiking, golfing (they have more than 200 golf courses), rafting and kayaking. Relatively flat, the city has an extensive network of bike paths, making it easy for outdoorsy types to get around.
Secondly, it’s an affluent, culturally minded community full of luxurious resorts, spas, high-end restaurants, shops and galleries. To date, around 70 pieces of public art dot the urban landscape.
Part of the Phoenix metropolitan area, Scottsdale’s boundaries interlock with the boundaries of Arizona’s capital, and with other municipalities, making it hard for the untrained eye to know where one begins and the other ends. That also makes Scottsdale an ideal base for visiting other destinations in the Valley of the Sun. It was in Phoenix in 1999 that trans woman Monica Helms created the pink, white and blue Transgender Flag, which debuted at the Phoenix Pride parade in 2000. The Pride celebration, which started in 1981, is held each October. The southern Phoenix community of Laveen, about a 40-minute drive away, hosts the annual Arizona Gay Rodeo, which takes place in February and raises funds for local LGBTQ2S+ charities
Here’s our cheat sheet on LGBTQ2S+ and more in mainstream Scottsdale.
What to do
Taliesin West (12621 N. Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd., Scottsdale). The former winter home of famed architect Frank Lloyd Wright was also a testing ground for some of his ideas about organic architecture and design. As you’ll see, the UNESCO World Heritage property fits naturally into its Sonora Desert setting. Sign up for one of the guided tours or take the 60-minute audio tour.
REI Co-op Adventure Center (17465 N. 93rd St., Scottsdale). Spend a leisurely morning or afternoon kayaking on the Salt River—yes, you can kayak in Arizona (but not on the Arizona Canal). The river flows through southern Scottsdale, passing by rocky red cliffs and riverbanks covered in trees and tall grass. REI Co-op is one of several companies offering kayak rentals and tours; they also operate a shuttle service that takes you to the best stretch of the river depending on water levels. The best part? Wild horses are known to come to the river’s edge to drink.
Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (7374 E. Second St., Scottsdale). A passion for art, design and architecture is a real thing in Scottsdale. The five galleries within this museum, part of the multidisciplinary arts organization Arts Scottsdale, showcase contemporary work from the museum’s permanent collection and in special exhibitions.
Art and design can be found all over the city, easily located with the help of the Scottsdale Public Art interactive map. Among the highlights is the Soleri Bridge and Plaza, a pedestrian walkway and public space in Old Town designed by renowned artist Paolo Soleri. Old Town is also where the Scottsdale ArtWalk, with music, food and horse-drawn carriage rides, takes place each Thursday evening.
Wine tasting. Yes, Arizona has vineyards. Old Town is home to LDV Winery Tasting Room (7134 E. Stetson Dr., No. B110, Scottsdale), where you can try a flight of vintages from grapes grown in the high-altitude Chiricahua Mountain foothills of Southeastern Arizona. Across the street is Merkin Vineyards Old Town Scottsdale (7133 E. Stetson Dr., Suite 105, Scottsdale), which has 110 acres of vineyards in the Verde Valley and city of Willcox.
Gateway Loop Trail (18333 N. Thompson Peak Pkwy., Scottsdale). The Sonoran Desert can be explored on foot or horseback. Several trailheads are located a short drive from downtown, including the Gateway Loop Trail, a 6.5-kilometre trail in the protected McDowell Sonoran Preserve.
Cave Creek Outfitters (31313 N. 144th St., Scottsdale). Located near the Rio Verde, this company takes horseback rider groups through the McDowell Sonoran Preserve and the Tonto National Forest, with guides pointing out interesting plants and animals, and relaying lore about the region.
Where to stay
W Scottsdale Hotel (7277 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale). Located in Scottsdale’s Entertainment District, in the northeastern section of Old Town and just a short walk to restaurants, wine-tasting rooms and boutiques, this fashionable and pool-focused Marriott property has an adults-only pool and lounge areas that come alive Fridays through Sundays with Las Vegas-style parties. Their Living Room bar is a spot to sip cocktails while listening to live music Thursday through Saturday night. For those who want something more chill, the property has a fitness centre and a spa.
Hotel Valley Ho (6850 E. Main St., Scottsdale). Mid-century modern architecture meets contemporary amenities, with red, orange, turquoise and other hues popping against the desert backdrop. This is a one-of-a-kind LGBTQ2S+-friendly boutique hotel is full of colourful touches. Spend your day relaxing around the hotel’s The OHasis Pool or VH Spa before grabbing a cocktail and ordering a few shareable small plates at the on-site restaurant, ZuZu.
Mountain Shadows Resort Scottsdale (5445 E. Lincoln Dr., Paradise Valley). Opened in 1959 and underwent extensive renovations in 2017. Nestled below Camelback Mountain, a prominent landmark in the city that resembles a camel’s humps, the upscale resort has spacious rooms, two 75-foot pools connected by an over-water walkway, private cabanas, a fitness centre, a golf course and Hearth ’61, a popular local restaurant.
Where to eat
Cien Agaves Tacos & Tequila (7228 E. 1st Ave., Scottsdale). No trip to the southwestern U.S. would be complete without trying some of its amazing Mexican fare. This Old Town cantina is a local favourite both for its authentic Mexican dishes and its own special creations prepared every day, like the Island Shrimp Taco or the Tinga Taco. Choose from one of the 100 hand-selected premium agave spirits—or one of their freshly made margaritas—and grab a spot on one of the two outdoor patios.
Hash Kitchen (8777 N. Scottsdale Rd. and 14838 N. Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd., Scottsdale). With several locations throughout the greater Phoenix area, this breakfast and brunch place serves American-, Mexican- and Italian-inspired dishes. Think chicken and waffles, huevos rancheros, hash and cannoli pancakes. Be sure to try one of the cereal-inspired cocktails or the Bloody Mary bar, which has 30 different garnishes. Expect a line-up on weekends.
Where to party
BS West (7125 E. 5th Ave. Rear, Scottsdale). This popular LGBTQ2S+ bar in Old Town, which has a history dating back to 1988, hosts weekly and special events. There are drag shows on Thursdays and Fridays, and go-go dancers on 2-4-1 Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Scottsdale’s close proximity to Phoenix means you can easily access the clubs and bars in the Melrose District, that city’s gaybourhood, which is only a 15-minute drive from Old Town.
Charlie’s Phoenix (727 W. Camelback Rd., Phoenix). At this western-themed LGBTQ2S+ bar, which opened in 1984, you can learn to line dance or just sit back and enjoy one of the regular drag shows. On Tuesdays, there are go-go dancers. And there are always the handsome bartenders.
Pat O’s Bunkhouse Saloon (4428 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix). Popular with bears and leather guys, this easy-going spot, located in a converted house, happens to have a collection of items gathered from former LGBTQ2S+ bars in the Valley. Sport-themed parties—and bingo.
Stacy’s @ Melrose (4343 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix). Cocktails, dancing and drag aimed at all members of the acronym. Karaoke Mondays, variety show Sundays—sure. Goth on Wednesdays? Bring on the eyeliner!
Editor’s note: Portions of the writer’s trip to Scottsdale were covered by Experience Scottsdale. The sponsors of the trip did not direct or review coverage. The views expressed are the writer’s own.
