The phrase “former stronghold of communism” doesn’t sound so sexy, nor does it set off the average person’s gaydar. And yet, Slovenia, which became an independent country in 1991, has become one of Euorope’s more LGBTQ+-friendly countries—and easily one of the most friendly post-Soviet Union countries.
Although it took until 2022 for the country to legalize same-gender marriage, which includes adoption rights, Slovenia has offered same-gender couples registered partner rights since 2006 and banned discrimination based on sexual orientation in 2003. The country, which has a population of just 2.1 million people, happily hosts queer events throughout the year and dutifully flies Pride flags every June. The country’s capital, Ljubljana, which has a metro population of about a half a million, has hosted a Pride festival every June since 2009.
Considering its increasing embrace of queer people, it should be no surprise that Slovenia is also the least communist-feeling of all the former strongholds of communism. Thanks to its early adoption of the Euro, Slovenia has avoided the economic pitfalls that former comrades such as North Macedonia and Serbia have faced. Here, the streets are clean and the smiles are bright. And with fewer money troubles, Slovenes have grown generous, lending a helping hand to the downtrodden among them, including sexual minorities. It’s quite common to find blissfully gay couples sampling štruklji, or rolled dumplings, in the quiet pedestrian streets of Ljubljana and the sublime alpine heights of Drežnica.
Though Slovenia’s most famous attraction is probably Bled, a charming mountain town situated on the banks of a lake with the same name, the country also has its own narrow slice of the Adriatic coast, with beach towns like Piran, Portorož and Izola.
Ready for a stroll across this long-overlooked neighbour of Croatia and Italy? So are we. We’ll start in the capital, Ljubljana. With a large student population and a café- and bar-lined river running through its city centre, it’s a fantastic place to wander around for a day or two. And it’s got an exuberant mixed nightlife scene.
What’s this about dragons?
A symbol of Slovenia, and more specifically Ljubljana, is the dragon. Yes, like the ones in Game of Thrones and House of the Dragon. Visitors shouldn’t leave the city without catching a glimpse of its iconic, art nouveau Dragon Bridge (Resljeva c. 2, Ljubljana).
What event helped Slovenia become more LGBTQ-friendly?
The linden tree, a national symbol of Slovenia, is known for its adaptability and, most of all, its hardiness—much like the Slovenes themselves. In 2001, when two men were denied entry to a café in Ljubljana because of their sexual orientation, Slovenes rose up and organized perhaps the most passive-aggressive protest in gay rights history. For the next several Fridays, angry Slovenes, both gay and straight, took over the entire café and ordered only water, driving the owner’s profits into the ground. The organizing that sustained this protest led to the founding of Ljubljana Pride, which happens every June.
Despite the impact of the activism of the last couple of decades, Slovenia’s LGBTQ+ movement goes back at least 40 years, as illustrated by the exhibition “Their Laws, Our Lives” at the National Museum of Contemporary History (Celovška cesta 23, Ljubljana), which runs until September 2024 and demonstrates the popular support of LGBTQ+ people.
What are some LGBTQ+ nightlife options in Ljubljana?
Enough about history—where are the queers now? Year round, the Dada-inspired, perennially popular and wonderfully affordable queer epicentre is Klub Tiffany (Masarykova cesta 24, Ljubljana), a cultural venue-slash-club that hosts everything from meetings of lesbian-feminist anticapitalists to performance art (including drag) to the selection of Mr. Bear Slovenia and assorted club nights.
The queer-friendly neon-coated Klub K4 (Kersnikova ulica 4, Ljubljana) is also an integrated bar-art centre-entertainment venue (with a hostel upstairs) that offers cultural experiences of all sorts. Their ultra-cool courtyard bar, Zorica, attracts imbibers of many different demographics.
If these underground-inspired venues aren’t artsy enough for you, there’s the LGBT Film Festival, which takes place every autumn, spotlighting both established and up-and-coming filmmakers. Year-round, the neighbourhood of Metelkova Mesto, just across from the main train station, is home to galleries galore, including Galerija Alkatraz (Metelkova ulica 8, Ljubljana), which regularly features work from emerging queer artists.
For gay and bi guys looking for fun, Ljubljana’s District35 (Stegne 35, Ljubljana, Slovenia) is far more calming and contemporary-chic than its Hunger Games-like name implies, though it can get a little wild on Naked Fridays. But District35 is not always just for guys. The sauna, which has steam rooms, private cabins, a terrace, a labyrinth and a bar, hosts an all-gender event the third Monday of each month. The competition, Finnish-style sauna Klub Gymnasivm (Ulica Pohorskega bataljona 34, Ljubljana) has moodier advertising and fewer theme nights, but they offer free condoms and lube for those who head up its “stairway to sin.”
What are some LGBTQ+-friendly hotels in Ljubljana?
Those tired of touring (or perhaps dragon-riding at one of the local gay venues) will need a place to rest their head. Here are two contrasting choices. Hotel Cubo (Slovenska cesta 15, Ljubljana) is a chic (on a budget) independent boutique hotel in a historic building. Hotel InterContinental (Slovenska cesta 59, Ljubljana) is an upscale glass-encased high-rise with breathtaking views (even from the gym) and a strong reputation for LGBTQ+-friendly service.
How do I get out and into nature (and naturism)?
Though mostly landlocked, Slovenia does own a sliver of land along the Adriatic, wedged between Italy and Croatia. It’s here that you’ll find the “natural” (read: unofficially nude) beach of Plaža Strunjan (Strunjan, 6320, Portorož), which has a gay following. Once on the main beach, head right (to the north) until you’ve left the sun chairs behind. Strunjan is near the enchanting town of Piran, which is beloved for its Venetian-style buildings, left over from the days of Venetian dominance in the region.
For those who’d rather swim in a spectacular alpine location, however, Lake Bled, just a 45-minute drive from Ljubljana, is calling. It’s famed around Europe for its incredible vistas and sporting opportunities. Visitors enjoy canoeing, castle-viewing, hiking, swimming and, in winter, tobogganing. Less-crowded alternatives to Lake Bled include the 13th-century castle in Predjama, about an hour’s journey south of Ljubljana, which takes Bled Castle and triples it in majesticness, then adds a network of caves underneath.
For more hardcore adventure, Triglav National Park (Ljubljanska cesta 27, Bled), about 45 minutes from Ljubljana, boasts more kayaking, rafting and parasailing than Bled could dream of.
Finally, if you want to see an unexpected interpretation of a public figure, then stop by Sevnica, the former hometown of one of Slovenia’s most famous exports, the current Mrs. Donald Trump. Melania’s haunted visage has been permanently etched into a metal statue just outside the town, a work that calls to mind The Blair Witch Project and is not, if you judge by the takes of critics, “being best.”
Melania left in 1996. Slovenia has just gotten more and more LGBTQ+-friendly since then. Who’s to say if there’s a connection? Visitors can enjoy the welcoming attitudes nonetheless.
