Historically, most winter carnivals are rooted in the Christian calendar and a desire to subvert its rules. At a carnival or a Mardi Gras, you drink in as much pleasure as possible before Lent, the 40 days leading up to Easter, when devout Christians are expected to fast and focus on regretting their sins—nobody’s idea of a good time.
After Rio de Janeiro and Venice, Nice, France, is the most famous carnival celebration in the world, with a recorded history dating back more than 150 years, though there is documented reference to the city’s festivities by Count of Provence Charles of Anjou back in 1294. (Read our insider’s guide to Nice here.)
Nice Carnival, which next runs from February 15 to March 2, 2025, though perhaps not as racy as Rio’s, is hedonistic and colourful, featuring two weeks of parades, street parties and cultural events. And right in the middle of Nice’s festivities is Lou Queernaval, a nighttime LGBTQ+ party that’s like a wintertime Pride celebration for Côte d’Azur. Unlike many other Nice Carnival events, it’s free. In 2025, it’s happening on February 21.
“You can have a Pride anywhere. But Lou Queernaval can only be in Nice, which has a huge carnival tradition. It’s a tourist event, yes, but it’s important for the people living in Nice. The gay community in Nice has always been involved in carnival. LGBTQ+ people here have been very involved in the commercial life of Nice,” says Erwann Le Hô, coordinator of the Centre LGBTQIA+ Côte d’Azur. Le Hô is also an organizer of Lou Queernaval and is the event’s MC. He moved to Côte d’Azur from Brittany in 2013, to be with the man who would become his husband.
The Lou Queernaval MC role is an important one. When the queer event was founded in 2015, it was more of a free-for-all, with spectators walking amid the floats, stilted walkers, dancers and costumed figures. “If people wanted to join us, it was okay. But immediately, everyone was in the square and we couldn’t move anything. The artists were blocked in their place. Everyone wanted to be close to the artists and the floats,” says Le Hô.
These days, there is seating for spectators surrounding the historic Place Masséna, where between 200 and 300 costumed participants frolic and perform. It’s partly choreographed by an artistic director, partly spontaneous self-expression—a mix of parade and stage show. Le Hô’s voice booms out over the spectacle, explaining what’s going on and in some ways conducting it. He compares the event to a circus. The Lou Queernaval crew is joined by the king and queen of Nice Carnival, gigantic comic figures on a float that rule over the entire two weeks of carnival.
But that’s just the first part of Lou Queernaval. When the pageantry is over, a DJ takes control of the proceedings, and Place Masséna becomes a grand outdoor nightclub. “We open everything and people can join the artists in the square. You have 10,000 people dancing to pop music in the biggest square in Nice,” says Le Hô.
Because prime tourist season for the south coast of France is during spring and summer, Lou Carnaval is an important event for LGBTQ+ venues across Côte d’Azur, bringing visitors to the region at a time when businesses would otherwise be quiet.
“There is an important gay party life in Nice, which has helped the gay community to be seen in the Côte d’Azur,” says Le Hô. “At Queernaval, people come to spend the weekend, and the gay bars, nightclubs and cafés organize lots of events, so it’s a great destination for partying in the winter.”
This year’s carnival theme is King of Oceans, a nod to the 2025 UN Ocean Conference that Nice is hosting next spring. Each year, the MC wears a costume that expresses the theme. During our interview, Le Hô wasn’t certain what he would be wearing, but King Neptune is a possibility. “I think lots of young gay people are going to be mermaids. I’m too old to be a mermaid, but maybe I could be a daddy king of the ocean. I’m working on it.”
