Photographer Gianni “GianOrso” Rauso grew up in Rome, a city that’s not only the modern home of 4.3 million people but also the HQ of the Roman Catholic Church and former base for the Roman Empire.
The most visited city in Europe after Paris, Rome’s attractions are so famous, it seems pointless to list or describe them—the Vatican and its many museums, the Colosseum, the Forum, Trevi Fountain. But Rauso looks at the city with a particularly gay eye—and he sees a lot of hot male flesh.
Wander+Lust asked him about his favourite spots in gay Rome for art and for nightlife. And for cruising, he says it’s hard to beat the Vatican.
Before I ask you about Rome, I want to ask how you became a photographer who specializes in shooting naked men.
I had been drawing men, but I was not satisfied with the results. I started with photography in 1985, and since the very beginning, my idea was to take pictures of bodies, specifically male bodies. I started taking pictures of the fountains and monuments in Rome. You know, the city is full of naked men everywhere, the gods, the planets. So my first models were the guys in Piazza Navona and Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, the Four Rivers Fountain by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Since I was a kid, I’ve been lost in love with the statue of the River Ganges, which is the river of India, who is a massive man. I was speechless the first time I saw him. I’m still in love with him. My boyfriend is very jealous of him—every time we go near there, I say, “Sorry, I have to say hello to my lifetime crush.” Photographing real people was quite difficult at the very beginning because it was the 1980s and people were not particularly aware of posing for a photographer. At a certain point, a good friend of mine accepted my request. Those photos are still very special to me. He was a very big, tall, husky man, and technically the photos are a big disaster—the results are grainy due to low light—but I feel the emotions of that time because of the guy.
These days, where do you find your models?
In not particularly regular ways because some are friends, some are friends of friends, some are guys contacting me on dating apps, and some are guys who saw my photos on the web and reached out to me. Others are boyfriends or ex-lovers of my good friends.
On your Instagram, you also have photos of drag shows, queer tango dancing and Pride festivities.
The DeGenere Tango Queer Roma marathon (annually, usually in March; 2026 dates TBD) is something I started photographing some years ago because two of my good friends are tango dancers and they invited me to take photos of the finale. I fell in love. I like the atmosphere, I like the music, I like how people interact during the dancing. They’re difficult photos to take because I’m used to working in a studio. I’m not a tango dancer myself. I was a disco dancer for a long time when I was young.
And the drag show?
I love drag shows. Last year, we found a new bar here in Rome, and they had a photo exhibition on the second floor of the bar. I was with my boyfriend and some friends. We stayed for dinner and then the drag show. We fell in love with the three girls doing the show. It’s called Malo Glitter Bar (Via Fanfulla da Lodi 3, Pigneto, Rome). They host all kinds of queer events. I love it because you can find young people, older people, women, drag or whatever. It’s very cool.
It’s the second bar from the owners of Largo Venue (Via Biordo Michelotti, 2, Pigneto, Roma), which is a music and performance space with a younger crowd. It’s a bigger space and is more about dancing, though they have shows as well. They have a patio, which is nice in the summertime.
How has gay life changed in Rome in recent years?
How can I explain living in a city like Rome—a very old city, the former capital of the Roman Empire; a city full of history, full of art? We also have the Vatican here, and you must understand that the Pope and the Vatican have been, in a way, the king of the city for centuries and their presence is still very strongly felt. Because of the Vatican, you also have a large gay presence. You can go to Saint Peter’s Square and be cruised by some priest there. It happened recently to me and some friends of mine. We were just inside the square and there was a priest who was all, “God, I love bears.” I thought, “Tell your boss, he will be so happy.”
In general, the gay life is what you’d find in any big city. Things have changed a lot since the arrival of smartphones. When I was in my twenties, there were parks and porn cinemas where you’d go to meet someone. Today those places are mostly just a memory for my generation. Except for Malo, I don’t go out much. But, well, last Sunday I went to a special event by SM Club Roma (the organization hosts a variety of kinky events, some more queer than others, at various venues, sometimes Zoobar, Via Generale Roberto Bencivenga 1, Monte Sacro, Rome). I was taking photos. I was bored to death. There were a lot of straight kinky couples, but a few gay guys as well, so it was a mixed situation. Anyway, I took some nice pictures.
There is also a bar for bears, Company Club Roma (Piazza Manfredo Fanti 40, Esquilino, Rome), which is very close to the main train station. It’s not a big place, but they have a dancefloor and karaoke some nights.
Bear Markett (usually at Alibi Club, Via di Monte Testaccio 44/40, Rione XX Testaccio, Rome—a dance club/play space that also hosts other queer parties and cultural events) is another event that friends of mine go to.
There’s lots to see in Rome. Where do you take international visitors?
Of course, the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, Piazza del Campidoglio, the Jewish Quarter (Rione XI-Sant’Angelo, Roma). My favourite square is Piazza Navona. I detest anything related to religion, but St. Peter’s Square is a masterpiece. If you want to see the best sculpture and architecture and Michelangelo, you have to go there. Basilica Parrocchiale Santa Maria (Piazza del Popolo 12, Municipio I, Rome) and San Luigi dei Francesi (Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi, Centro Storico, Rome) are where you can see Caravaggios. I live in a city where you are lucky to see the masterpiece of artists like Caravaggio or Bernini and Michelangelo there in front of you. It’s different from just looking at them in art books.
So much classic art. Is there a place to see something more contemporary?
MAXXI—National Museum of 21st Century Art (Via Guido Reni 4a, Quartiere I Flaminio, Rome) is a very big museum for contemporary art. I go two or three times a year—they always have some very good exhibitions.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
