Guatemala may not be the first destination that comes to mind when queers think of Central America. That would most likely be Costa Rica, Panama or Belize. Though homosexuality is legal in Guatemala, LGBTQ+ people often face discrimination and there are few laws recognizing or protecting them. In 2024, the government tried to ban the Pride parade, though the country’s top court allowed it to proceed, asking that participants show “good manners.”
Queer travellers should be discreet outside of the major tourist destinations. Snogging in public might attract some stares, though probably not much more than that, because of the country’s conservative social fabric.
Yet the country of 18.1 million has lots of things worth seeing, including its Mayan culture and history, volcanos, lakes, jungles and beaches. And it’s not just about the sites. From the thumping gay clubs of Guatemala City to the pan-bohemian vibes of Lake Atitlán, there’s magic in this country’s landscapes and history that make it feel welcoming to all. Guatemala has a little something for everyone. Plus, it’s not swarming with gringos…yet.
Start the party in Guatemala City
First, a geography lesson. If the knobby Central American isthmus between Mexico and Colombia is the silhouette of a big-bootied drag queen, then Guatemala is the chest. Guatemala City, the country’s capital, is where most visitors arrive. It’s also here, tucked between colonial facades and modern high-rises, you’ll find the country’s best known LGBTQ+ bars and clubs. Though the city, which has a population of 1.2 million, is not a great beauty, it can be worth staying here for a night or two to investigate the nightlife.
G Bistro (Ruta 7 71, Guatemala City) is perhaps the city’s best known gay club; karaoke and reggaeton rule the night here. Its sister club, Genetic Majestic Club (Ruta 3, 3-08, Guatemala City), is the place to go for a flashy light show and high-energy drag. Black Club (11 Calle 2-54, Guatemala City), meanwhile, boasts provocative male dancers and a risqué atmosphere, encouraging panting, uninhibited fun.
Continuing the G theme of G Bistro and Genetic Majestic, the same company also operates Gwet Spa Guatemala (Av. Reforma 11-20, Guatemala City), one of three saunas dedicated to an all-male clientele. The other two are Sauna Greco (20 Calle 9-49, Guatemala City) and the Asian-themed Dansei Sauna (3A Av. 10-14, 9-49, Guatemala City).
At the end of the night, the centrally located Wyndham Garden Guatemala City (Es. 1 Avenida 12-46, Guatemala City) is a good place to crash, with its spacious rooms and inclusive atmosphere.
Chill in the old capital of Antigua
While Guatemala City lacks charm, Antigua more than makes up for it. Just a half-hour outside the capital, the picturesque former colonial epicentre has long attracted travellers for its historic beauty and groovy vibe. Its artsy, progressive reputation has helped create a queer-friendly local community. The cobblestone streets and colourful doorways shelter several LGBTQ+ parties and welcoming events. Many are held at Fridas (5a Avenida Norte #29, Calle del Arco, Antigua). The Antigua-based promoter Eventos y Promociones LGBT also hosts parties at various venues.
For a general overview of Guatemalan cuisine, try a food tour with the LGBTQ-friendly Cuscun Cooking School (Calle Real No.86 A zona 1, Jocotenango). If you want a more global experience, then savour the celebrated pizzas and pastas of Hector’s Bistro (6a Calle Poniente 24, Antigua) in their romantic courtyard. El Refectorio (3a Calle Oriente 28 A, Antigua) serves unique dining amid its historic open-air grounds, alongside a standout menu. Don’t miss the salmon with split pea risotto.
For a few night’s stay in Antigua, try Hotel Mansion del Rey (4 Av. Norte 24, Antigua), which is praised for its non-judgemental clientele and proximity to Antigua’s hotspots.
Do the circuit tour around Lake Atitlán
Two and a half hours away from Antigua via shuttle bus, the shimmering waters of Lake Atitlán harbours its own allure for queer people. There are several communities around the lake worth visiting.
The lakeside village of San Marcos La Laguna, known for its naked yoga retreats and open-minded visitors, is a haven for those who prefer introspection (and pansexuality).
Meanwhile, the lively village of San Pedro La Laguna is bursting with horny, open-minded backpackers, and even contains Lake Atitlán’s official gay bar: Ola Bar (7 Av. 2-12, San Pedro La Laguna). Neighbouring San Juan might not have a gay bar, but it is packed with local queer artists you may meet if you happen to get lucky (in every sense of the word) during your visit. Speaking of tours, if you’re looking to book a different kind of vacation, then Rainbow World Fund’s Guatemala Journey is an educational and cultural excursion unlike many others that you’ll find. Part humanitarian trip, part organized tour, the transformative experience will introduce you to local shamans, queer local leaders and even a “trans underground railroad”—an organization that protects trans women as they escape Central America to seek protection elsewhere.
See the must-see sights
If you’re still up for adventure, then it’s worth checking out Guatemala’s other world-renowned destinations. The ancient Maya ruins of Tikal are a short flight from Guatemala City. While lacking in explicitly gay-friendly nearby accommodations, the temple complex rises out of the jungle like temples in an adventure movie. (In fact, they appeared in Star Wars IV: A New Hope.)
The active Fuego volcano, which you can see from Antigua, is another highlight. A trek up to the summit rewards visitors with otherworldly views and the chance to roast marshmallows near a hot lava flow. Farther afield, hidden in the mountains of Cobán, Semuc Champey is a natural “bridge”—a series of turquoise pools—over the Cahabón River. Travellers can take a refreshing dip in the pools.
