On December 10, 1913, an individual was arrested in North Shields, a beachside suburb of Newcastle upon Tyne, U.K., for “having loitered in Charlotte Street and Church Street for the purpose of committing a felony.”
When Jennie Grey, then 25, showed up in court for trial, she “appeared in the dock stylishly dressed as a woman.” As her legal name was Robert Coldheart, the court had her hat pulled off in an attempt to discredit her claims of being a woman. The story made the national news with headlines proclaiming that Grey had “lived as a woman” and “masqueraded in female attire practically from his youth.” Or maybe she was a trans woman living her best life.
Newcastle artist, tailor and sometimes tour guide Richard Bliss, who was elected the city’s first openly gay councillor back in 1988, sees Grey as an early trans hero. As we meander around Newcastle’s historic centre chatting about the city’s LGBTQ+ history, Bliss tells me he wants the city to erect a statue of her—perhaps depicting Grey with her hat being pulled off in court—and to have her join Sting, Mark Knopfler and Dr. Miriam Stoppard, who are among the stars along Newcastle’s local Walk of Fame.
Maybe someday Newcastle will also add stars for the five local queens who tore up RuPaul’s Drag Race UK (Choriza May, Michael Marouli, Ginger Johnson, Tomara Thomas and most recently Sally™). Then, perhaps the city should consider Nancy Brooker Spain, a queer broadcaster and journalist who died in 1964; suffragette Kathleen Brown and Dr. Ethel Williams, who lived as wives in the early 1900s; and 1970s gay activist and teacher Tim Bolton-Maggs.
I don’t suggest it to Bliss’s face—and he wouldn’t suggest it himself, I’m sure—but perhaps Bliss himself, who was just 25 when he was elected to city council as an out gay man, should also be a walk of fame candidate?
Newcastle upon Tyne has contributed many stories to the U.K.’s queer history. Bliss told me about two cruisy public washrooms, known in British slang as cottages, which were popular back in the mid- to late-20th century. At the one on Shakespeare Street, known as Anne Hathaway’s Cottage (named after Shakespeare’s wife, not the American actress), in the 1950s and ’60s, the cruisers were so organized they’d play music loudly if the police were around. The one in Bigg Market was called the Wheel of Fortune because it had a circular shape topped by a round skylight that looked like a roulette wheel; it was popular because it had two entrances, making it easier to escape the police. Anne Hathaway’s Cottage is gone, but contemporary visitors can still visit the Wheel of Fortune, which is now a cool subterranean cocktail bar called WC Newcastle (Bigg Market near High Bridge and Cloth Market). There’s live music and a chandelier hanging from the round skylight.
But the city’s non-queer history also makes the northern city, which has a metro population of about half a million, a fascinating place to visit. Energetic, sporty and artsy, Newcastle’s been influenced by the Romans; by the coal mining, ship building and railway industries of the Georgian and Victorian eras; and by a 21st-century civic reinvention as those industries were gradually shut down after the Second World War, with gusto, during the era of Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher (1979 to 1990).
Sure, the northern city of Manchester gets more attention from LGBTQ+ travellers. (Read our insider’s guide to the best of LGBTQ+ Manchester here.) But let’s be blunt: Newcastle, which sits on the banks of the River Tyne, with sandy beaches and seaside cliffs just a short metro ride from the city centre, is much prettier. Unlike Manchester, Newcastle city centre escaped total destruction during German bombing in the Second World War. The city’s architecture ranges from medieval (the castle that gives the city its name was built in 1080 by the eldest son of William the Conqueror) to Georgian (Grey Street, with its elegant honey-coloured Georgian façades, is considered by many to be the most beautiful in Britain) to modern (the Gateshead Millennium Bridge, which opened in 2021, tilts in the most delightful way, like a wink, to let ships pass up and down the river). There’s something intriguing to see with every twist and turn around the city centre.
And it’s all so civilized. The walk from the Great North Museum: Hancock to the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art, the north and south edge of the territory a visitor to Newcastle will want to cover, takes just 30 minutes. But if one were to stop for a pint along the way, it could take much longer—the warmth and humour of Geordies (as Tyneside residents are called) makes them easy to meet and spend time with.
Unpretentious, self-depreciating but observant, Geordies have always got something witty to say. When I was waiting for a stall in the washroom of the Eagle Newcastle (see our listings below), a man who was probably under the influence of drugs came out of one of the stalls completely naked. Without missing a beat, one of the other men waiting in the washroom deadpanned, “I don’t know if you noticed, but I think you might have lost your clothes in there somewhere.” These casual interactions, which can draw in even the shyest travellers, are part of what makes Newcastle feel special.
Newcastle is also a great jumping-off point for a tour of the Northumberland region of England and nearby Scottish Borders. Easy to get to by train from London or Edinburgh, Newcastle is less than an hour’s drive to one of the best-preserved sections of Hadrian’s Wall, built by the Romans in 122 C.E. to keep out invaders from the north.
A day in the countryside or at one of the beaches near Tynemouth, followed by a pint in the Pink Triangle—it’s hard to think of a more relaxing holiday. Here’s our insider’s guide to the best of LGBTQ+ Newcastle upon Tyne.
Pride
Northern Pride (July 18 & 19, 2026). Founded in 2007, Northern Pride is a community-led two-day festival that features performance stages, community tents, vendors, a parade and other events across the city. Most of it is free.
What to see and do
BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art (South Shore Rd., Gateshead). Housed in a former flour mill, this museum is one of the U.K.’s leading contemporary art institutions, with five floors of constantly changing exhibitions by British and international artists. The accessible and often playful program often includes works by queer artists. The industrial architecture and riverside location make it a great place to get an overview of the city itself. Admission is free.
Gateshead Millennium Bridge (Quayside, spanning the River Tyne between Newcastle and Gateshead). A trip to the Baltic Centre or an event at the The Glasshouse International Centre for Music (St. Mary’s Square, Gateshead) should include a walk or bike ride across this award-winning bridge, which opened in 2001. The sleek curved path tips up to let passing marine vessels cross under it; it looks like it’s winking. The entire bridge is lit up in rainbow colours during Pride.
Quayside Walk (Newcastle and Gateshead riverside). Stroll along the Tyne’s north and south banks, including crossing the Gateshead Millennium Bridge and the historic Swing Bridge, and take in the sweeping views of the river, the bridges and the mix of architecture. During the day visitors can stroll the Local Heroes Trail, a walk of fame celebrating Geordies who have made a cultural impact, while in the evening Quayside is a nightlife hub with craft-beer bars, riverside terraces and a lively, inclusive atmosphere.
The Biscuit Factory (16 Stoddart St., Ouseburn Valley, Newcastle). Set in a former Victorian warehouse, this is the U.K.’s largest independent contemporary art, craft and design gallery. More than 200 artists contribute to two floors of fine art, sculpture, prints, jewellery and high-end design work. Entry is free.
Tyneside Cinema (10 Pilgrim St., Newcastle). Housed in an Art Deco building on a narrow Medieval-era lane, this queer-friendly cinema is a cultural hub showing independent, world and arthouse films. The café-bar is a great place for a break or a date. Gay trivia: Tyneside Cinema is where the late great filmmaker Derek Jarman met his long-time partner Keith Collins in 1987.
Grey Street and Grey’s Monument. Considered one of the U.K.’s most beautiful streets, Grey Street boasts sweeping Georgian architecture, elegant façades and a sense of grandeur. It’s also where you’ll find some nice restaurants and the 18th Theatre Royal (100 Grey St., Newcastle). At the top of the street is Grey’s Monument, a statue of the second Earl Grey, Charles Grey. One of Britain’s most progressive prime ministers, he oversaw the passage of the Great Reform Act of 1832 and the Slavery Abolition Act of 1833—he’s also the person Earl Grey tea is named after. The statue stands on a 134-foot column, inside of which are stairs leading to a high-altitude observation deck that can be visited during certain times of the year.
Blackfriars Medieval Friary (Friars St., Newcastle). Hidden away behind the flashy modern entertainment complex The Gate (Newgate, Newcastle), this atmospheric square is surrounded by buildings that date back to 1239, when a dining hall and other monastic buildings were built for friars. It’s a nice place for a coffee and a stroll.
Grainger Market (Grainger Street between Nun and Nelson streets). Built in 1835 as part of architect-developer Richard Grainger’s grand vision for a more elegant Newcastle, this Victorian arcade still has much of the bustle it did when it was first built. Butchers and fishmongers share space with global street-food counters, artisan bakers, cafés and independent stalls selling vintage clothes and vinyl records. The Marks & Spencer “Penny Bazaar” is the oldest operating M&S in the world.
Long Sands Beach, Whitley Bay Beach and Sandhaven Beach (Tynemouth, Whitley Bay and South Shields). Downtown Newcastle is roughly nine miles (14 kilometres) from the North Sea coast, easily reachable by the Tyne and Wear Metro, its main line following the River Tyne to several cute beachside communities. From the Victorian era to the 1960s, it was a real resort scene on the North Sea. These days, it’s not quite up there with Mallorca or Mykonos. But when it’s warm, these beaches fill up with sun seekers and ice-cream eaters. On Sundays a market with food, clothes, art and assorted tchotchkes takes place at Tynemouth Station. A Metro day ticket also covers the ferry across the river, connecting North Shields to South Shields, the hometown of recent RuPaul’s Drag Race UK competitor Sally™.
Where to stay
Maldron Hotel Newcastle (17 Newgate St., Newcastle). This solid, reliably modern four-star option in the city centre is a short walk from Central Station, Grey Street and the Theatre Royal.
The rooms are well thought-out and the value is good as is the buffet breakfast. As well as LGBTQ+ themes in its marketing, we noticed a couple of gender nonconforming staff members during our visit.
INNSiDE by Meliá Newcastle (River View, Bridge Court, Quayside, Newcastle). With a commanding view of the River Tyne and a colourful, funky design, this is a stylish place to crash. Though it’s close to everything, including the Pink Triangle, it’s more chill riverside than staying right downtown. The casually designed public areas are a cool place to gather your friends and have a drink.
Malmaison Newcastle (104 Quayside, Quayside, Newcastle). More theatrical—dare we say OTT?—than its rivals, this luxe quayside option, located in a historic building, is a little farther from the Pink Triangle, but close to the Gateshead Millennium Bridge. The service is great and very LGBTQ+-friendly.
Sandman Signature Newcastle (Gallowgate, near St James’ Park, Newcastle). This upper-mid contemporary hotel is within easy walking distance of the city centre attractions. The property skews slightly toward business-and-sport-travel, but it’s also a convenient pick for queer visitors attending match days, theatre or nightlife
Crowne Plaza Newcastle – Stephenson Quarter (IHG) (Hawthorn Square, Forth Street, Stephenson Quarter, Newcastle). The city’s business-grade, full-service four-star has an indoor pool and spa, large meeting spaces and a handy location directly behind Central Station. Big groups, Pride delegations or visiting conferences often use the facilities.
Jesmond Dene House (Jesmond Dene Road, Jesmond, Newcastle).This sumptuous independently owned boutique hotel, in a leafy enclave just outside the city centre, is a romantic spot to stay and a popular venue for weddings.
Albatross Hotel (51 Grainger St., Newcastle). For those on a budget, this well-rated backpackers’ hostel has dorm rooms and an LGBTQ+-friendly policy. No curfew, no lockout.
Where to eat
Blackfriars (Friars Street, Newcastle). Located in a former 13th-century refectory, believed to be the oldest dining room in the U.K., this restaurant has got the stained glass windows to prove how historic it is. The menu leans into traditional British cooking with a seasonal, local sensibility—think Northumberland-sourced meats, fresh seafood and rustic à la carte dishes. A great place to try a Sunday roast with all the trimmings.
Dobson and Parnell (21 Queen St., Newcastle). This sophisticated Quayside restaurant fuses modern British and European cuisine in a historic Victorian-brasserie setting. It’s casually swank with high ceilings, exposed brickwork and a polished brass bar. The menu changes according to what locally sourced ingredients are available. Try the tender confit duck leg with Puy lentils and hazelnut dressing.
The French Quarter (Arch 6, Westgate Rd., Newcastle). This bistro’s two founders, one from France’s Loire Valley, one from Northumberland, wanted to take the fuss out of French dining. The result is an easygoing and thoughtful casual dining experience with small plates served by very friendly staff. And wine, wine, wine to go with everything from escargots to ratatouille to boeuf bourguignon.
Dakwala (42-44 Grainger St., Newcastle). Dabbawal is an Indian street-food concept that’s casual, fun and full of flavour. Their menu features vada pao, Bombay burgers and other vibrant South Asian street classics, some served in stacking tiffin containers. It’s well loved for its relaxed, communal energy. Cocktails, too.
Blake’s Coffee and Kitchen (53 Grey St., Newcastle). A long-standing, independently run café right on Grey Street, Blake’s is beloved by locals, students and visitors alike for its warm, relaxed vibe and solid food. A place for a hearty breakfast or a caffeine break while touring.
Maki & Ramen (9 Eldon Square, Newcastle). This affordable, modern spot for—yes, you read the name right—maki and ramen is one of the most reliable places to get Japanese cuisine in Scotland and Northern England. And it’s a fun place to eat, too, with its wood accents, coloured lights, clean lines and “message walls” of colourful sticky notes with patrons’ thoughts and feedback. Vegan, vegetarian and halal options are available.
Grainger Market (Grainger Street between Nun and Nelson streets). A public market since 1835, this is still a great place for a casual meal or quick bite. Crepes Gourmet (Alley 4, stalls 173-175) has a delicious array of crepes; The Firebrick (Alley 2 stalls 80-81) sells an array of beer in colourful cans; Lindsay Bros Quality Fish & Seafood (Alley 1, stalls 24-25) has got you covered for fresh oyster and other sea treats.
Triple A Food Tours (various venues). These multi-stop walking food tours might be the perfect way to discover downtown Newcastle and treat your palate at the same time. Hosted by exceedingly affable Geordie guides, visitors get to discover restaurants and vendors they would never have discovered on their own and learn about local history—some perhaps taken from books, some definitely not authorized. The tour times, itineraries and guides vary by the season.
Where to party
The Yard & Heavens Above (2 Scotswood Rd., Newcastle). The Yard is the city’s longest-running dedicated gay bar and still feels like the social heartbeat of Newcastle’s Pink Triangle. Many evenings start here, even if they end up elsewhere. It’s a place to drop in for a drink, meet locals and watch a bit of drag. Upstairs, Heavens Above is a more cocktail-centric lounge where the mood shifts toward DJ sets and late-evening mingling. On the weekends the crowd can be a little young with lots of allies.
The Bank Bar (12–14 Scotswood Rd., Newcastle). A converted bank building with a cozy interior, it’s got an easy-going old-school cabaret-meets-pub feel. Whether it’s karaoke, drag bingo, guest performers or themed nights, The Bank attracts a mixed older-skewing crowd. Not quite a place for a quiet chat, not quite a club, it’s the Pink Triangle bar Goldilocks would love.
Eagle Newcastle (42 Scotswood Rd., Newcastle). At many U.K. gay bars, allies can outnumber queers. But The Eagle, part of an unofficial network of Eagles around the world, wears its hypermasculinity as a guard against the onslaught of bachelorette parties. Guys of all ages drop by for an early evening drink or perhaps come out later for themed events like leather and uniform nights. The basement bar is cruising friendly.
Rusty’s Showbar (Unit 3-4, International Centre for Life, Times Square, Newcastle). First, a note on Times Square, which is right across from the Pink Triangle. The Centre for Life is a huge curved-wall medical-sciences complex, opened in 2000. It’s also got a science centre museum-type experience that caters to young visitors. The Centre wraps around what is called Times Square. Inexplicably, considering the STEM nerdiness surrounding it, Times Square is home to pop-up events and parties; a large, mostly straight dance club called Digital; and Rusty’s. This campy cabaret features drag, talent nights and dancing. It’s a gay ole time, even when allies make up a majority of the patrons.
Scotswood Showbar (78–82 Scotswood Rd., Newcastle). While Rusty’s is more of a bar/pub with shows, Scotswood Showbar is a purpose-built performance venue, with seating and a stage, featuring musical theatre, drag, cabaret, comedy and other chaos. It’s gay entertainment for the masses.
Boulevard Show Bar (3–9 Churchill St., Newcastle). Not yet convinced that Newcastle is camp enough for you? Here’s another drag-dominated cabaret, this one with polished Broadway-style choreography and big elaborate costumes. Though there is rowed seating, the table service section makes it ideal for birthday parties or stag/hen outings.
Switch (4–10 Scotswood Rd., Newcastle). Next door to The Yard, it’s one of the city’s go-to gay dance bars with two floors, pumping playlists and a mixed LGBTQ+ and allies scene that skews younger. It opens at 11 p.m. on weekends and is the “official” pre-bar to Powerhouse so it’s not exactly where most people will end the night.
Powerhouse (7–19 Westmorland Rd., Newcastle). Newcastle’s biggest, longest-running nightlife institution has grown from a gay club into a large, mixed-crowd super-club with four floors, rooftop spaces, multiple music rooms, big sound systems and events that run into the wee hours. It’s the destination for the “all-night” crowd. Historically gay, its clientele is now pretty mixed.
Lesbi Honest Events (various venues). Launched in 2024, these sapphic party promoters host various events, from club nights to bar crawls, throughout the year. Singles, couples, party animals, queer nerds, trans women and NBs should all feel at home. If they’re not hosting an event during your visit, note that Friki Tiki (28 Nelson St., Newcastle), a bar with lots of bare wood and netting, is one of their preferred venues.
Where gay and bi men can find fun
Number 52 Sauna (52 Scotswood Rd., Newcastle). The city’s busiest sauna for gay men has a sauna, steam room, hydrotherapy pool, lounge and private rooms. Regular theme nights include underwear night, fetish night, daddy night and “dare to bare,” where patrons are encouraged to walk around sans towels. Closes at 10 p.m. most weeknights, but open 24 hours on Fridays and Saturdays.
Where to shop
1b Books (1b Bolingbroke St., Newcastle). Selling new and second-hand books, this is a women-owned gem of a bookstore. They host a monthly queer and neurodivergent book club, among other special events.
Olive’s Book Club (online and pop-up). This woman-owned queer, feminist, anti-racist and anti-ableist bookshop doesn’t have a physical location at the moment, but sells at various markets and events in and around Newcastle upon Tyne.
Leaf Clothing (38–40 Pilgrim St., Newcastle). A family-run boutique since 1978, Leaf Clothing, in the heart of the city centre, specializes in bespoke men’s tailoring and stylish women’s wear.
Travelling Man (43 Grainger St., Newcastle). This specialist comics, graphic novels, board games and collectible shop occupies a prime spot on Grainger Street. Queer geeks should be able to find some treasure here.
UpSide Down Presents Gift Shop (61 Side, Newcastle). A quirky independent gift shop under a historic railway arch near the Quayside and Dog Leap Stairs, it specializes in locally designed greeting cards, outsider art prints and North East–themed keepsakes. Ideal for shoppers looking to bring back something truly unique from Newcastle.
Eldon Square Shopping Centre (from Haymarket Metro Station to Newgate and Clayton streets, between Percy and Northumberland streets). This bigger-than-you-suspect downtown shopping mall, which wraps itself right around the historic Old Eldon Square, is where to find international and national fashion brands. The eating options aren’t bad, either, if chains aren’t a turnoff.
Editor’s note: The cost of the writer’s trip to Newcastle was covered by VisitBritain. The sponsor of the trip did not direct or review coverage. The views expressed are the writer’s own.
