There are aspects of Cusco, Peru, that could be confused with a queer spiritual retreat in California. Gringos abound, many wearing mantas, or ponchos, despite the fact that very few actual Peruvians wear these in real life. As the point of entry to visit the global bucket-list-topper Machu Picchu, Cusco gets a lot of foreigners seeking the sacred. Though some of its architecture marks it as a classic Spanish colonial town, Cusco, not far from the Sacred Valley and the Urubamba River, is considered by many visitors to be one of the most mystical cities on Earth.
Look past the tour operators and tourist-friendly restaurants and the city’s layers will peel back, revealing so much history, tradition and Indigenous beliefs. Founded in the 11th or 12th century, Cusco was once the hub of the Inca Empire and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Western hemisphere. The jumble of alleys and streets, some snaking up and down steep hills, still evokes the original, puma-shaped design of the city, recalling the Inca’s formidable power. From the mountainside ruins of Sacsayhuamán, which make up the “head” of the sacred puma that is the city’s body, to Coricancha, the Temple of the Sun, where the Inca worshipped at the altar of celestial power, the city is absolutely more than the sum of its parts.
Today, these historic passages are overflowing with artisanal shops and cozy cafés that conjure their own kind of magic. The city also extends an open (if quiet) hand to LGBTQ+ travellers. Although Cusco, which has a population of about a half million, lacks official queer bars, its colourful cafés and social spaces are mostly safe havens for queer travellers looking to mingle and celebrate.
Still, visitors should be mindful that attitudes can be conservative in Peru. The Roman Catholic church still holds sway in the country, especially in areas that are not so accustomed to international influences. A tip: The official flag of the city of Cusco is nearly identical to the rainbow flag—it has just one more blue stripe in the middle—so don’t mistakenly think that the rainbow flags in Cusco are celebrating Pride year-round.
Although the city is a delight to walk around, with its Incan heritage, mountain views and bustling vibe, visitors come for many reasons. Cusco is a magnet for people in search of personal transformation and spiritual awakening. Whether they’re joining Andean shamanic ceremonies, hiking to sacred sites or just inhaling the eucalyptus-scented air drifting in from the mountains, travellers often find a journey to Cusco to be as much internal as it is Instagram-friendly. It’s not only a jumping-off point for a hike along the Inca Trail and a visit to Machu Picchu; it’s also a base for tours of the Sacred Valley, where many other Incan sites and geographical wonders are located.
Plus, at an altitude of 2,400 metres, Cusco will inevitably take your breath away.
What to see and do
Cusco has no shortage of stunning views and boutiques, but its cultural offerings run even deeper. Begin your exploration at the Museo Inka (Ataud 154, Cusco), whose exhibits help paint a fuller picture of historic Inca life, religion and art. If the phallic Indigenous art at the highly rated Museo de Arte Precolombino (Plaza de las Nazarenas 231, Cusco) makes you hungry, try lunch at the museum’s MAP Café (Nazarenas 231, Cusco), which has a refined approach to regional flavours.
Aside from the Plaza Mayor de Cusco, which was a public space for the Incas and then for the Spanish, one of the most visited spots in Cusco is the twelve-angled stone, which was part of a stone wall of an Inca palace that was destroyed by the Spanish who then recycled its materials. Located in a wall on Hatun Rumiyoc, the stone’s meaning and origins are subject to much speculation.
Those in search of chocolate, coca tea or funky fashions shouldn’t miss Mercado Central de San Pedro (Thupaq Amaru 477, Cusco). Be prepared to haggle.
Where to sleep and eat
For budget-friendly accommodations, the Los Andes Inn (Av. Jorge Chavez, near the airport) is a comfy choice. For something more historic, more stylish and more centrally located, the Royal Inka I (C. Sta. Teresa 335, Cusco) is located only a block from Plaza Mayor. Once the home of Francisca Zubiaga y Bernales, one of Peru’s most famous heroines, this hotel is a National Monument with a sweet combination of history and hospitality. Hotel San Agustín Internacional (C. Maruri 390, Cusco) also has an excellent location and is a mid-priced option.
No trip to Cusco is complete without sampling its gastronomical treasures—you don’t have to go to Lima to experience Peru’s smouldering hot food scene. Feast on Peruvian staples at Chicha (Plaza Regocijo, Cusco), which is among the famed chef Gastón Acurio’s brands that lure food lovers from around the globe. For a pick-me-up, venture to L’Atelier (Atoqsayk’uchi 605 A, Cusco), a little café on a hill high above the city. Its signature blue balconies and artisanal teas make it a lovely, if busy, place to stop between excursions.
Where to find fellow queers
Cusco is one of the most inclusive cities in Peru, in no small part due to its resurgent Indigenous population, a community that values diversity. The annual Pride March, taking place every late June or early July, is testament to the way the city has opened itself to everyone. For nighttime fun the rest of the year, Chango Club (Tecsecocha 429, Cusco) is an energetic, queer-friendly spot, ideal for hours of judgment-free dancing. Meanwhile, if cocktails and conversation are your speed, the atmospheric Museo del Pisco (Sta. Catalina Ancha 398, Cusco) provides not only delicious drinks but also a friendly place to meet fellow travellers.
Queer life extends to the restaurant scene. The hip vegetarian spot Green Point (Carmen Bajo 235, Cusco) has an enchanting ambiance with dim lighting, lush greenery and hot gay waiters. For some sunset magic, snag a reservation at Limbus (C. Pasñapakana 133, Cusco), where playful cocktails and sweeping views set the scene for an unforgettable night.
How to take a spiritual journey through the Andes
Cusco is more than just a stepping stone to nearby Machu Picchu; the Sacred Valley surrounding the city should not be missed. This traditional cradle of the Inca Empire provides an ideal landscape for LGBTQ+ travellers looking for adventure, romance and spiritual connection.
Those who want to lean into wellness can sign up for the queer-friendly Peru Retreat for Introverts & HSPs (highly sensitive people), which offers a safe, affirming environment for practicing yoga and meditation along with cultural reflection.
The seven-day Men-Only Spiritual Yoga Retreat offers queer men the chance to participate in shamanic blessings, while also connecting with the healing energy of the Andes. Though frequently sold out, you can keep an eye on the website to hear about the next offering.
For a lavish spiritual getaway, Tambo del Inka (Sacred Valley, Av. Ferrocarril S/N, Urubamba), which overlooks the Vilcanota River, is an elegant base hotel from which to visit the sacred sites—and unwind after a day of exploring them. They have a spa, as well as indoor and outdoor pools.
Whether it’s through meditation in the ancient ways of the region’s ancestors, or being in a beautifully located cosmopolitan city, Cusco will provide you inspiration in more ways than one.